Toilet leaking from fill valve opening in tank

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  #1  
Old 07-26-16, 01:04 PM
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Toilet leaking from fill valve opening in tank

Hello, I did not see a FAQ on this exactly, hope it has not already been answered.

I've done my share of toilet repairs, this one is bugging me.

I started to see a leak on the floor by the fill valve. I could see water coming from between the nut and tank right under the fill valve hole.

Took it apart, saw the shank gasket was in bad shape. Easy enough so far.

Bought new Fluidmaster 400 fill assembly. Leak much worse after assembly. Noticed that the interior surface of the tank where the gasket seats is not flat by a longshot. So no seal is possible, and water may be getting in between the flange and the gasket also. I guess the old washer just took a set and eventually sealed.

Tried some Permatex Blue RTV silicone gasket maker, but the leak came back.

Tried using a cone washer from a ballcock assembly, did not work either.

I now have some butyl rope but have not tried yet as that will not clean off easily. My fill hose also puts some angular force on the joint which does not help either.

I am toying with the idea of leaving the shank gasket off, making the joint hard, then sealing after installation?

Can anyone recommend a solution that has worked for them? I think the answer is some sort of goo, i just need the right stuff. Thanks !
 
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  #2  
Old 07-26-16, 01:24 PM
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What type supply line do you have?
Only one's I use is stainless steel braided lines, only need to be hand tight and never had one leak unless someone else over tightened it.
 
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Old 07-26-16, 01:33 PM
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Check the bolts that hold the tank to base together. Wipe everything and put food coloring in tank to see where the leak is coming from.
 
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Old 07-26-16, 02:14 PM
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Thanks guys. I did the dye test and it confirmed it was coming from the tank, the bolts are OK. I can see the drips forming between the nut head and the bottom of the tank.

The leak is not from the supply line, I do use the braided stainless ones. The issue is how to seal the fill valve at the tank opening on the inside.
 
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Old 07-26-16, 04:00 PM
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I can't imagine the interior of a tank being so distorted (or bumps) that the fill valve washer cannot seal. Be sure you are not overtightening the mounting nut and clean all surfaces.

If the valve still leaks from below, you can try a rubber washer under the tank. Apply Teflon Paste to the valve male threads, directly under the tank where the washer and nut will be tightened.
This shouldn't be needed but might fix the leak. It's similar to fixing a pop-up drain assembly, sometimes no matter what water will make it's way through the inside of the large basin washer and the male threads and it needs to be sealed with the paste.

Ensure all parts are completely dry before applying the paste.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 10:13 AM
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Thanks I will try that. You are correct that there are 2 ways for water to leak, between the gasket and the tank, and between the gasket and the flange on the valve. Basically water can get in from the top or bottom of the gasket. I can feel a high point When I run my finger around the gasket sealing surface on the tank. I think the silicone might have worked but I probably over tightened it.
 
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Old 07-29-16, 08:03 PM
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Crap still leaking, very slow small leak.

I'm going to try building up the area with a plumbers epoxy or JB weld so I can get a flat mating surface. Anyone have any luck doing this? I'm not sure how waterproof the stuff is.
 
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Old 07-30-16, 03:21 AM
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Before you do anything that gets hard get some plumbers putty, here is a link
Shop Plumbing Tools & Cements at Lowes.com
can get any hardware store. get a small amount and roll it out in a log and wrap it your valve base.
 
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Old 07-30-16, 11:32 AM
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Thanks - I tried plumbers putty and silicone both. They are both too soft and just squeeze out when I torque down the nut under the tank. This has been a frustrating one for sure.
 
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Old 08-04-16, 09:19 PM
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I could also try grinding down the area to flat with a dremel wheel. Any advice on that?
 
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