Tub lip causing tile board problems

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Old 07-27-16, 06:50 AM
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Tub lip causing tile board problems

Has anyone seen a tub like this with a horizontal lip that abuts the studs? Normally, there is a vertical flange that is screwed directly into the studs.

I did secure the tub, but now trying to figure out how to put the cement board on so it covers the lip. Will I have to shim or build up the wall studs? Or is it o.k. to let the cement board sit just above the lip of the tub, then let the tile cover the lip completely?

I'm using 1/2" Hardibacker. The tub is a standard 5', the 'Ovation' from American Standard.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 08:53 AM
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I would attach furring strips or shims to the wall studs to space out the proper distance for your Hardie Backer.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 08:55 AM
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I'm not the pro here but I was looking at the Ovation series at American Standard and it looks like they were all pictured with the plastic/fiberglass surrounds.

Was anything mentioned in the installation instructions requiring the use of a surround?
 
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Old 07-27-16, 09:54 AM
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Yes, you can get the surround as an option. I prefer the tile walls, however. I didn't know the construction would mess up the tile board installation. The instructions do show diagrams of how to install the tile board and tile, but unfortunately, American Standard used the wrong diagram. Theirs showed it for a normal tub with a vertical flange.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 09:58 AM
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I was leaning toward the shim idea, but by essentially bringing the wall in 1/2", it would no longer meet flush with the existing wall outside the tub area. I'd have to redo all the bathroom walls!
 
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Old 07-27-16, 11:19 AM
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No, you don't have to redo the walls. You just need to trim around the tub surround with some molding.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 12:27 PM
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That's true.

I just called American Standard tech support about this. They said you can set the bottom of the tile board right on the lip of the tub's edge. It didn't seem right to me, but that's what they said. That will avoid having to build up the walls with shims or furring strips.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 12:32 PM
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Not sure I like that idea as that relies on caulk only to keep water from seeping behind the tub/tile .... unless I'm looking at the pic wrong.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 12:33 PM
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You can set your 1/2" Backer board directly on the tub edge on top of your vapor barrier. Your tile will extend over the backer board seam and create an area where water won't leach up. Cut your vapor barrier about 1/2" longer than the cbu so it will hang into the tub, then tile over it all. I would have opted for the surround, however, but understand your wish for real tile.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 03:45 PM
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Yes, that is what I was envisioning with the vapor barrier. While on the subject, can you recommend what type of plastic to use for the vapor barrier (how thick, etc.), or is there a special material that is used for vapor barriers?
 
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Old 07-27-16, 04:32 PM
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Just going to chime in here and say that I think you have the wrong tub for a tile job. If the backer board does not clear the flange such that the tile can jump the gap, then you have a tub that is designed for integral walls not tile. In reviewing installation instructions on your tub, a thin wall tile flange was noted. You also have to contend with the radius on the tub itself and clear that with your tile. All systems point to the wrong tub.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 09:10 PM
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Czizzi, yes I know now it is the WRONG tub. But I'm not going backwards at this point. Just trying to do any fixes that will help it work.

I do think the tile will 'jump the gap'. The horizontal lip at the edge of the tub is about 1/2", so if I use 1/2" backer board, it will rest on that lip. The tile can then extend down past the bottom of the backer board to the tub ledge, effectively 'jumping the gap'.

As a consolation, this is for a guest bathroom, and anticipated to get very little use, so I'm not overly concerned about moisture buildup in the cement board. I believe the moisture barrier placement per Chandler should allay any minor concerns.
 
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Old 07-27-16, 09:28 PM
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Actually, I just found this YouTube video that addresses exactly the problem I have. Check it out at the 8:36 minute mark .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psf9cnYoVts
 
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Old 07-28-16, 03:02 AM
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I have never used flashing tape in that manner, but it is a definite good solution and makes sense. I plan on doing this on my next shower coming up in a few weeks. Thanks for the video.
 
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Old 07-28-16, 04:03 AM
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Shim, any day.
But I don't think you need to redo the walls for this.
Not a great job done on this, though.
 
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Old 07-28-16, 04:20 PM
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Why shim? It will throw off the meeting of your adjacent sheetrock and the CBU by 1/4", and will accomplish little in this instance.
 
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Old 07-28-16, 06:43 PM
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Not a fan of trying to make a tub not designed for tile work. Watched you video and am not in approval of the method. I ran into this 6 months ago when the mudbed walls that were removed did not allow for proper installation of the backerboard on the back wall of the tub. I furred out the wall by 1/2", carried it well past the tub and then made a 90 degree corner to return to the regular wall depth. Yes a little jog in the wall, but done nicely looked professional.

My issue with the video is that he planned on installing the bottom row of tile at an angle to the wall to clear the obstruction. If installing a shower door or sliding doors this is a big issue.
 
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