toilet shutoff valve repair or replace?

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Old 08-29-16, 08:21 PM
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toilet shutoff valve repair or replace?

My toilet fill tank's shutoff valve starts leaking slowly after I turned it off and on for a toilet repair. The leak is about one drop every few seconds. If I turn the valve off, then it leaks about one drop every hour. Is that a common problem with washer-based shufoff valve?

I wrapped a toilet paper around the hose and made sure water is not trickling down the outside of the hose from the tank above, or from the threaded outlet.

Some video on youtube says to tighten the nut under the valve handle, or unscrew it altogether and replace the washer assembly. Is this good idea, or should I just replace the entire valve? It has compression fitting on the inlet and threaded on the outlet and is angled. I assume the best replacement is to use another identical valve so I can reuse the compression ring and nut?
 
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Old 08-30-16, 03:32 AM
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Replacing the washer in the valve is one fix, but, depending on the type pipe you have leading to it, and how much you have (too short, game over). If the valve is held in place via a compression nut, then you can change it to a new, 1/4 turn valve (recommended). I would not recommend reusing the old ring, but it can be done. Just keep an eye on it for leaks once you reattach the new one.
 
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Old 08-30-16, 04:23 AM
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There are two different areas where a valve can leak. If it's leaking from the valve stem (handle) then tightening the packing nut usually takes care of it. If the valve doesn't shut off completely then it can be a bad washer. If planning to replace the washer the trick is to find a washer that will fit. You may not have luck at one of the big chain home centers but a plumbing supply store may have what you need.
 
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Old 09-05-16, 01:48 PM
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There is very little length to work with here. In fact, the valve is so close to the wall I don't know if there's any space to losen the nut. Was it customary to install the valve as close to the wall as possible?Name:  valve.jpg
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Anyway, I bought a 1/4 turn ball valve (also Eastman brand) to replace this. If for some reason the repair doesn't work and leaks, is there a good way to temporarily plug the very short pipe so I can turn back on the waters main until I can come up with another repair plan?
 
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Old 09-05-16, 02:25 PM
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Yeah, you really don't have enough to work with. I am assuming it is leaking from the stem. If so, undo this nut and unscrew the handle to remove the shaft. Replace the washer on the end and reassemble. Let us know how that goes.

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Old 09-05-16, 02:39 PM
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Use tin snips to cut the escutcheon off the wall if needed.
There's no way to cap the pipe if it's damaged, a valve will most likely need to be installed.

Here's how to install a compression valve:
Remove the old nut and ferrule, clean the copper with emery cloth.
Warning: If the old ferrule is very difficult to remove, stop and post back. Or you can try to use the old ferrule. Clean it and apply pipe dope to the compression threads. Do not overtighten.

For the new nut and ferrule:
Wrench tighten the nut until the ferrule just grabs the pipe a little, then tighten 1/2 turn more or a little less. Turn water on and check for leaks between the nut and the copper.

If there are any leaks or seepage, tighten the nut in a very small increment and check again. Overtight will cause leaks.
 
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