Toilet removal

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Old 09-13-16, 05:18 PM
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Toilet removal

Is there a preferred method to removing an old toilet? This one could have been in place for maybe 25 years and I'm about to remove it. It seems that there is a lot of potential to damage the flange and other parts underneath by moving a heavy toilet around trying to remove it. I have a new toilet and wont reuse the old one. Can it be pried up? I haven't been under the crawl space in that section of the house in a while and don't know what the flange, drains, etc look like.

Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 09-13-16, 06:17 PM
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I don't know how it would even be possible to damage the flange when removing the toilet. Are you planning on removing it with a sledgehammer or what??? Loosen the 2 nuts that are under the caps on each side and pull the toilet straight up. That's it. Remove the back tank first if you want to make it lighter, easier to move around. IMO it's nice to have a 4 wheel furniture dolly cart to set the toilet on so that you can wheel it out. Use a sponge and a bucket to get most of the water out before moving it.
 
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Old 09-13-16, 06:22 PM
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The toilet should come up easily. The wax seal usually keeps the connection in good shape.

The things that could hold the toilet down are old caulk and the weight. Scrape off any caulk and get help lifting it.
Old caulk can sometimes be hard to cut, post back if you need some tips.
 
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Old 09-13-16, 06:25 PM
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First remove the water. A shop vac is great but a sponge works well also. To facilitate water removal from the tank shut the water off then flush holding down the handle till as much water as possible has drained out. then remove all water from tank and bowl.

At this point you can remove the tank from the bowl. Ideally you can remove the bolts holding it to the bowl. In the real world you may need to cut the nuts off with a Sawzall. I usually don't bother removing the tank but it does make lifting and carrying the toilet easier.

The toilet is held to the floor by either 2 studs with nuts or four if very old. They may be covered by caps that just pry off. You may need to drive a flat tip screwdriver underneath to pry them of.

In a perfect world you can unscrew the nuts and lift the toilet off. In the real world you may need to Sawzall them. If caulk is still holding the toilet to the floor you may need to drive a thin stiff putty knife all around.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-13-16 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-14-16, 10:27 AM
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Thank you very much for the advice.
 
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Old 09-15-16, 03:11 PM
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Yes, you all were right and it was straightforward to remove the toilet. Unfortunately, I'm having some additional difficulties.

If you look at the attached photo, you can see the metal flange is pretty corroded. I would think I need to replace this but how does one remove it without breaking the drain pipe? The outer corroded flange seem to rotate around the center drain pipe which doesn't move. There is a screw at about 10 o'clock that you cant see under the flange on which the flange hangs when it's rotating unless I lift up the flange with a screw driver.

This flange is sitting on particle board which doesn't appear to be in pristine conditions. The flange seems to move around a little bit in the hole but seems to be binding more on one side than the other.

Since I have had such good (and very timely) help from diy.com, I thought I would consult before I destroy anything. I haven't not been down under the crawl space to see what things look like from below.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Old 09-15-16, 04:11 PM
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I say the bigger problem is particle board should never be used in a bathroom. It's amazing it hasn't already swelled up like a sponge and started to disintegrate.
 
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Old 09-15-16, 04:48 PM
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I think that flange is brass, and it is leaded in. Don't think this is a diy repair, although I have done it myself. I agree with Ray that the particle board ought to go... but don't know your whole plan.
 
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Old 09-15-16, 05:29 PM
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Thank you for the reply xsleeper. I might remove the particle board but since it's been there for over 40 years, and I didn't see any damage when I exposed it even next to the shower, I will need to give it some more thought. The particle board is on a subfloor of 2" x 8" tongue and groove Doug Fir. But if I do replace the particle board with external plywood, what then?
I don't believe the flange is brass because (a) a magnet sticks to it and (b) the corroded part of the flange is scaly and red (11-1 o'clock in the photo). The flange has some sort of grayish protective coating on it from about 1:00 o'clock all the way around to 11:00 o'clock and the coating from 11-1 has come off to expose the rusted flange. I don't know what leaded in means but in the photo I think the the central part (i.e., the part inside the iron flange that doesn't move when the iron flange is rocked about its circumference), and the drain pipe it is hooked to, appear to be black ABS (nonmagnetic and easily scratched with a knife - and I think I can see the marks where the part came out of the injection mold).
I'm not sure how the flange and inner pipe are connected but as I said earlier the outer iron flange has limited circumferential movement about the central immobile ABS pipe but didn't easily move or come off when pried in a direction perpendicular to the floor. Can this flange be repaired or replaced?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Old 09-15-16, 05:51 PM
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Ohhh, ok. I saw the black but i assumed that was cast iron, and that the ring was just dirty/ oxidized. Pictures on my phone are pretty small.

This old post might help. Larry must have written this when he was just a pup.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/to...-flange.html#b
 
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Old 09-15-16, 05:57 PM
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I have never done this but the above advice was that this is not a DIY project. However, I went to Youtube & put in: "How to remove flange under toilet" & got several video's.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+under+toilet

That might help you decide if this is something you want to do. I'd recommend watching any & all videos on this BEFORE attempting to do this repair. Various videos will offer various advice, tips & tricks.

I'd also wait for replies & advice from the professionals here on diy.com

Good luck.......
 
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Old 09-21-16, 06:35 AM
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I always try to redo everything as it should be and then some. Proper materials and code.

If u want a quick fix and the flange isn't broken or gonna go thru the floor, you could wire brush the excess, spray on some Rust Convertor, then spray a rubberized sealant over the whole thing when it's dried.
 
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