Installing new tub in basement. Not lining up quite like it should. Ideas?

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-26-16, 10:01 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Installing new tub in basement. Not lining up quite like it should. Ideas?

So, i've been slowly working on my basement for some time now.
I am now down to just the bathroom. I just got the drain and overflow situated.
I dropped tub into place to verify drain lined up and ensure all fit as it should.

I got the tub perfectly leveled, but i'm disappointed to see there are some gaps.

I've never set a tub before, but i'm wondering if shimming will be OK and will not be obvious when i add tile to the walls and floor. Any thoughts or ideas?

Here are some pics:

The back of the tub sits flush against the wall on the left to middle, but back right side sits out about half inch. Can this be shimmed or would i have to tear out/redo framing? If framing, i would have to yank top and bottom plates. The wall is straight. I suspect tub isnt 100% straight. so, can i just shim before I put hardibacker up?
Name:  IMG_5012.jpg
Views: 1117
Size:  29.7 KB

Name:  IMG_5015.jpg
Views: 862
Size:  24.8 KB

Name:  IMG_5016.jpg
Views: 3054
Size:  30.3 KB

Now here is the front of the tub.
Remember, the tub is level.
There is a gap on bottom-left corner. Right side sits on concrete. I shimmed the left side temporarily.
Any advice on a permanent fix for this unevenness that wont make the eventual tile job on the floor look dumb?
Name:  IMG_5017.jpg
Views: 759
Size:  18.9 KB

Name:  IMG_5018.jpg
Views: 914
Size:  24.0 KB

Thanks in advance!
 

Last edited by ray2047; 10-27-16 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Seperate images.
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-27-16, 02:03 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,965
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
I venture to say the tub edge is straighter than the stud line. I would move the studs out to meet the tub edge if possible. When you install your 1/2" cbu, you will bring it just down to the top of the rim and stop. Your tile will jump the gap from the top of the rim to the tub edge and prevent wicking of water.
 
  #3  
Old 10-27-16, 04:19 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,655
Received 321 Votes on 285 Posts
How thick is the shim at the bottom of the tub?
 
  #4  
Old 10-27-16, 06:21 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 23,744
Received 631 Votes on 583 Posts
I agree with Chandler. Move the studs so they are straight. It will also help you when it comes time to sheetrock the ceiling. If you can easily pull the nails without destroying the studs you can go that route but it's faster if you have a Sawzall (reciprocating saw) with a metal blade you can run the blade along the top and bottom and cut the nails. Then move the studs to form a straight wall and re-install them.

As for the uneven floor supporting the tub is the easy part. Finishing the floor, especially where it meets the tub, will be the difficult part. When it's time to permanently install the tub have your shims in place to hold the tub level. Then mix up a half bucket of mortar. Dollop some tall blobs or a long tall line of mortar down the center of the tub area. Then set the tub in place and push down to squish the wet mortar.

After the mortar has hardened you can install a permanent shim under the left side of the apron. I like using cement board, VCT tile or any other material that is hard and not affected by water. The shim can be held in place with construction adhesive and position it so it's flush or very slightly recessed from the tubs front apron. That will allow you to tile or run your flooring right up to the apron. If tiling hopefully your tile is thick enough to conceal the gap. If doing vinyl flooring you can cover the gap by running a length of PVC quarter round or other molding along the bottom edge of the tub skirt.
 
  #5  
Old 10-27-16, 04:33 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks Chandler. I hate to see that but I've accepted that's what I'll have to do.

Thanks Marksr- the shimming about 1/2" exactly. I was thinking of selfleveling top coat. I may look more into that.

Pilot Dane- thanks for the info! I'll be marking and movin studs here in a bit.
As for the left floor/apron gap, thinking of self-leveling floor stuff. You used it?
Also, thanks for the tip on mortar bed. I wasn't quite sure if that's something I was needing to do or not. It makes sense and not a ton of extra work to have the additional support.

I'll post back any updates.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: