Sink Drain replacement

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Old 11-23-16, 04:15 PM
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Sink Drain replacement

I normally don't do any plumbing buy am willing to try this small job. My bathroom sink drain has rust showing around the edges and my understanding is the only way to get rid of it is to remove the drain; clean the sink area and install new drain. I have included some images, one is blurred but will work. What are the steps for me to do this. The p-trap on mine looks to be glued on the side close to the wall, see image. Cold this be left on and remove from above that? I am assuming the water is fine to leave on to the tap, will put a small container under for the bit in the pipes. Pipes under are plastic so this I am thinking will make it a little easier to work on. Watchedf a few youtube videos but most are for the pop-up drain types and one used white silicone under the flange before installing which seemed a little strange? Thanks for any tips or steps on how to do this.

Here is one I found that appears to be fairly easy with the steps shown, mind you I don't have a pop-up stopper.

Replacing a Sink Drain - Pretty Handy Girl
 
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Last edited by Paul O'Toole; 11-23-16 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 11-24-16, 05:19 AM
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Yes, you can do this.

The p-trap on mine looks to be glued on the side close to the wall, see image. Cold this be left on and remove from above that? I am assuming the water is fine to leave on to the tap, will put a small container under for the bit in the pipes.
Yes to both questions, but it would be easier if the section was not glued.

If the sink is porcelain, then use plumbers putty under the drain to sink. If it's the plastic then use the silicon to seal the drain.

The link you referenced is good. The only criticism I'll make is that TFE tape is not used on the slip joint nuts. The slip joint fitting should b e perfectly plumb or straight and a firm hand tight should be all that is needed to seal.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 11:26 AM
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Thanks for the post back. Will give it a go in the next couple of days and post back with results. If I loosen the middle collar do you think there will be enough play in plastic pipes under to remove the extension tail piece with the back connection of the P-Trap being glued?
 

Last edited by Paul O'Toole; 11-24-16 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 11-24-16, 12:38 PM
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No. Make it easy on yourself and cut the old tailpiece into about 3 sections. You can then remove it from the trap easily.
The new tailpiece can be installed in two pieces. Connect the drain flange, insert the 1-1/4" tailpiece into the drain before connecting it to the drain. Insert it down and then up.

I connect a lot of vanities and here's how to ensure no leaks:

Use Teflon paste on the upper threads to seal the inside diameter of the rubber basin washer, they tend to leak no matter what without any sealant.

Use a new 1-1/4" washer at the tailpiece to trap connection, although that connection should not leak even if loose or poorly fitted.
 
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Old 11-24-16, 01:09 PM
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Great help, will follow your instructions.

Paul
 
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Old 12-01-16, 01:42 PM
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Finished the drain replacement, went good. Put some plumbers putty under the sink flange; teflon tape above the rubber gasket; ending up having to cut a short piece off the tail pipe to get it to slid into my ptrap to attach up as the ptrack was glued on one end and there was not alot of room to play with. Tighted it all up had a very slight leak in one spot but after checking the rubber gasket was not quite flush in one spot, adjusted again and it is good to go. Thanks for input and tips, made a difference.
 
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Old 12-01-16, 03:05 PM
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Good job and thanks for letting us know how it came out.
 
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