Glacier Bay Keelia All-in-one Kitchen Faucet Low Hot Water Pressure

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  #1  
Old 01-05-17, 05:26 PM
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Glacier Bay Keelia All-in-one Kitchen Faucet Low Hot Water Pressure

Hello everyone,

I have been having some trouble with my kitchen faucet and just now getting around to try and fix it. I have a Glacier Bay Keelia single handle pull out sprayer. The water pressure with cold water is great. However, when switching over to hot water the flow slows to about a pencil width trickle. Other faucets on the first floor all have great hot and cold water pressure. The problem is just with the kitchen faucet. I have removed the head from the pull out hose and have found no obstructions. Aside from that I don't know where to go from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If there are any other questions I can answer I will be happy to. Thank you in advance.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 05:52 PM
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Turn off the shut off valves down below in the cabinet. Unscrew the hot hose from the faucet and put the end in a bucket. Then open the shut off valve and see if you get a strong flow. If not there may be sediment partially clogging the shutoff valve. If you have good flow then you know the problem is in the faucet.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 06:06 PM
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The lines that run from the inlet valves run into the base of the faucet. How would I be able to get inside the base in order to unscrew the hot water line? Also the hot water shut off valve does not completely shut off the hot water.
 

Last edited by Jskid; 01-05-17 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 01-05-17, 07:31 PM
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The supply line only needs removed from the valve, not from under the faucet. You need a separate line to flush the valve into a bucket.

It sounds like the valve needs replaced. Here's how to post a picture:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

The fact that the valve won't shut off says the washers inside are bad and probably blocking the water flow.

Most valves are compression type 5/8" (1/2 nominal) compression inlet x 3/8" compression outlet angle stop valve.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 07:57 PM
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Name:  Under Faucet.jpg
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Here's what I'm looking at... Left is the hot water side. Where exactly are you saying to remove the line from?
 
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Old 01-05-17, 08:09 PM
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To flush the valve remove the line from the top of the stop adapter tee, the top arrow. Attach another supply line (3/8" compression) and try to flush the valve out.
To change the valve you need to remove the entire stop adapter, the bottom arrow.

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I think your pipes might be 1/2" copper, there's a saddle valve on the other pipe.
If it is copper an easy way to fix it is to cut off the old valve and push on a sharkbite valve.
Let us know if you need help preparing and installing the valve.
 
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Old 01-05-17, 08:14 PM
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I'm not familiar with GB faucets. Check the hot supply hose, just inside the compression nut and see if there's a screen that needs cleaning.
 
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Old 01-06-17, 06:54 AM
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You are in a bit of a pickle if your shut off valve does not work. I would make replacing it my first project as there is a chance it may also take care of your low hot water flow problem. When replacing the shutoff valve you will need to turn off the well pump and bleed down the water pressure or turn off the water to your house at the meter or main shutoff.
 
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Old 01-07-17, 09:36 AM
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After scraping off the paint on the pipes from the renovation, it appears that the pipes are galvanized. Name:  pipe .jpg
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How would I go about replacing the shut off valve? Is this something a DIYer can do?
 
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Old 01-07-17, 10:18 AM
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Turn off the water to the house. Open a faucet to bleed off the pressure. Then unscrew your old valve. Apply a few wraps of teflon tape to the male threads and screw on the new valve. If you have the choice I like quarter turn ball valves better.
 
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Old 01-07-17, 11:00 AM
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Here's what I have so far...
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Even though there is debris in the pictures, would you still replace the shut off valve since it looks corroded?
 
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Old 01-07-17, 12:36 PM
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I flushed the line and the pressure is still low. Must mean the shut off valve is bad?
 
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Old 01-07-17, 12:43 PM
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If you want to fix this properly it's time to open up the wall.
Be careful cutting the drywall out so you don't nick any wires or pipes. You can also just cut a round hole around the old nipple.

There should be an elbow behind the wall, hopefully a brass drop ear elbow.

Unscrew the corroded nipple and install a new 1/2" x 4" brass nipple. Use 3 wraps of tape covered with Teflon paste on the male threads and do not overtighten, the nipple only needs to seal.

Screw a new angle stop onto the brass nipple, again using tape and paste. Your angle stop adapter for DW line and faucet can be reused or get a new one.

Here's an example of the valve you need:

BrassCraft 1/2 in. FIP Inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve-G2R17X C1 - The Home Depot
 
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Old 01-07-17, 01:02 PM
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I may not need to cut the dry wall it looks like this...
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Can I just pull that white stuff out?
 
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Old 01-07-17, 02:28 PM
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Name:  elbow behind wall.jpg
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here's a look behind the wall. Having trouble getting the nipple to budge going to get some spray to bust up the corrosion.
 
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