Need help aligning p-trap without enough room

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Old 02-04-17, 10:41 AM
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Question Need help aligning p-trap without enough room

I'm setting up a new vanity sink in a guest bathroom which involved basically replacing everything from piping on up. I'm about done, except I just ran into a spacing issue: the replacement p-trap on the new sink is so close to the wall pipe that there's no room for a connection there per the p-trap's instructions. (I've attachched an image for reference.)

I need to figure out what kind of combination will properly and successfully connect the trap to the wall, but this is my first re-do involving replacing the piping so I'm not sure what's appropriate. (The sink that was here before was somehow connected successfully, but unfortunately I didn't have enough foresight to photograph it before removal...)

What's maybe not obvious from the photo is that the wall pipe and trap are directly in line with one another: so if you're looking at the wall, the trap is directly between you and and it; they're not horizontally offset like the picture makes it seem. I can't figure out how to have the trap came down from the tail, almost wrap around itself, and still come out in-line with the wall pipe.

Thanks ahead of time.

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Old 02-04-17, 10:54 AM
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The pipe coming out of the wall needs a 22.5 or 45 degree elbow. Then you will swivel your trap 90 degrees right and your tailpiece will fit into the 22.5 or 45, using a slip adapter.

It looks like the pipe coming out of the wall will need to be completely removed and changed, so be prepared to cut the drywall out around it. Can't tell what kind of fitting is needed otherwise.

But if that pipe coming out of the wall is the same size as a slip pipe, you could leave it in place and get one of these:

https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/p...-joint-p403395

I just can't tell from your pic if that pipe coming out of the wall is a galvanized pipe with threads, or if it's an old chrome slip pipe.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 11:01 AM
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I just can't tell from your pic if that pipe coming out of the wall is a galvanized pipe with threads, or if it's an old chrome slip pipe.
Sorry, tried to get a good pic! It's galvanized with threads; the horizontal pvc piece (wall bend?) that would go from the trap to the wall pipe (if there was proper room) inserts into it, then the plastic nut screws around the wall pipe to hold them together.

I've been poking around for potential solutions in the meantime, and it looks like this arrangement might work in my case, maybe?

https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvnuL.jpg (From this page.)
 

Last edited by Morgan19; 02-04-17 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 02-04-17, 11:39 AM
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The image you posted would probably leak. The tail piece needed to be shoter, On that page this is closer to what might work.

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It almost looks like you are using a 1" trap. I ran in to at least one situation similar where only an 1" trap would work. The radius on the "P" curve is less on an 1" trap.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 12:29 PM
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Thanks!

It's definitely a 1 1/4" trap; I checked and it's inscribed on the trap's side.

When you say that first image would probably leak, why is that? (I'm trying to understand what to avoid, lest I think I've solved it and am just making more problems down the line.)

The second picture--the one you posted--looks promising, but fear I might not have the vertical space to make it work: the bottom of my tail is at the same level as the wall pipe, then with 4" horizontal space between them. Is it feasible to trim some off the drain's tailpipe (shortening it) to make the space for a connection if necessary?
 
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Old 02-04-17, 01:01 PM
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If it's galvanized threaded pipe, I would do what I said earlier. Screw on a female pvc adapter, (to go from galvanized to pvc) then a pvc street elbow (22.5 or 45). Then put a slip adapter into that. Your tailpiece fits into the adapter, and your trap swivels to fit onto the tailpiece. Easy peasy.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 01:55 PM
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You are dealing with close quarters, which isn't easy.
IMO you will need a sawzall to cut off the galvanized nipple ~1-1/2" from the wall.

From the nipple you will use a 45 street elbow as X said.

From the cut-off nipple I would do this:

- attach a 1.5" jacketed no-hub coupler to nipple
- insert street end of elbow into no-hub and tighten screws to 60 inch pounds
- glue a male trap adapter into the hub end of street elbow:
1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Trap Adapter-C480127HD112 - The Home Depot

A regular 1.5" slip tube trap can then be inserted into the trap adapter and rotated into position as said.

Use this nut when connecting the 1-1/4" pop up tailpiece to the 1-1/2" trap:
Everbilt 1.5 in. Plastic Slip Joint Nut with Washer-C2698C - The Home Depot

The above 1.5" nut should come with a 1.25" adapter washer.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 02:06 PM
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Here is an approximate layout of what Xsleeper is suggesting:

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A is a P-Trap adapter with male glue end.

B is a 45 (or 22) street ell.

C is a MPT to Female PVC adapter.

D is your pipe from the wall.

Here is the type of coupling you would use if you cut the pipe from the wall off as Handyone suggested. This replaces C in my diagram.

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Old 02-04-17, 02:10 PM
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I always use 1" P-traps but you can try 1" and see which works better for you.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 02:31 PM
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Thanks Ray, nice job with the photos.

*If* the galvanized nipple could be loosened and removed with a pipe wrench, (instead of cutting it off) you could also start with a mpt to male pvc adapter. That would gain you a couple inches.
 
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Old 02-04-17, 03:31 PM
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nipple could be loosened and removed with a pipe wrench
The above quote is ideal, Ray's picture is excellent. Both very good suggestions.

You already know the trap arm/wall arm needs to be as far back as possible.
If worse comes to worse, it would be worth it to cut into the wall and replace the sanitary tee with PVC if need be.

Doing this type of "serious" plumbing is often easier than the finish plumbing you are attempting to align. It will also usually make your drains flow like new.
 
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