Adjustment and alignment of new tub spout

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Old 03-02-17, 02:49 AM
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Adjustment and alignment of new tub spout

I am renovating my bathroom and have a question related to the tub spout installation. I am installing a Delta Porter Monitor 14 Series Tub and Shower Model#: 144984-BN.

The rough-in for the spout calls the spout piping to extend past the finished tub surface by 3 7/8" - 4". Pretty tight dimensions.

2 Questions-
  1. With the treads and teflon tape will it really end up with spout pointing down if I have this rough-in plumbing at 4"?
  2. While threading the spout on what happens if the spout gets really tight and is not pointing down? I am afraid I will crack a fitting or collapse the rough-in copper tubing.

I know this is a simpleton question, but I am green and the instructions are lacking.
 
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Old 03-02-17, 03:27 AM
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Not a simpleton question. First, use Rectorseal pipe dope and not teflon tape for a better seal. Put the 4" nipple in the receiver in the wall and snugly tighten it by hand. Install the spout on the nipple and continue to turn to tighten. When it gets to a point to where you know you can't make another turn, stop. The thread sealant will prevent leaks. Remember, you can always uninstall the nipple and use a different size if it doesn't work at first.
 
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Old 03-02-17, 03:47 AM
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Hi Chandler,

Thanks for the explanation. In my case I don't have a pipe nipple. I was trying to set it up like the photo below.

Name:  2017-03-02_5-38-57.jpg
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This is where I am now. I have a stub out of ample length to cut & solder the street fitting on at exactly 4". Name:  20170302_054133.jpg
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I thought a brass nipple would have been tougher than 1/2 copper pipe, but did not think I could get one to end up exactly 4" from the finished wall.

I still have the ability to remove this setup if you think a brass nipple is the better direction. Thoughts?
 
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Old 03-02-17, 01:38 PM
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After looking at that top photo I doubt i want to do it that way. When I looked closer I can see they were rigging something up. male street with a coupling joining it to the 1/2 copper pipe. Does'nt look too good.
 
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Old 03-02-17, 04:05 PM
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It would probably work, but as always, the fewer connections you have, the better. If you have the option of a nipple, it would seem to work better and with less hassle than sweating the copper. It would be a tossup.
 
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Old 03-02-17, 04:32 PM
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I just got done with a small tile job, new tub faucet and spout. The 3 7/8 - 4" suggestion was dead wrong... wouldn't even reach. I had to step up to the next sized nipple. It ended up being about 4 3/8" FF by the time all was said and done.

In your case, I would definitely test it before I get too far along.
 
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Old 03-03-17, 01:57 AM
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chandler/XSleeper- Thanks for your input. Timing could not be better. I have to put drywall on the backside of that wall today cutting off my only easy access to remove the stub-out currently there.

I appreciate your help.
 
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Old 03-03-17, 02:21 AM
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"First, use Rectorseal pipe dope and not teflon tape for a better seal."

I have read several postings of people using teflon tape AND Rectorseal pipe dope.

Is this a bad idea and just use pipe dope?

How long should I allow the pipe dope to dry to ensure the joint is sealed before pressurizing?
 
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Old 03-03-17, 03:02 AM
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Don't use both. Rectorseal doesn't need to dry, so you can use the connection immediately.
 
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Old 03-03-17, 03:16 AM
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Can do. Thank you, Chandler.
 
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