Gabage disposal recommendations + dishwasher connection

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Old 03-07-17, 08:11 AM
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Gabage disposal recommendations + dishwasher connection

Hi,

We've had our Insinkerator 444-5, 3/4HP, for around 11 years. It was working fine, now it just buzzes when I attempt to turn it on. It does not appear to be blocked--it turns freely with the Allan key inserted into the bottom. So, I think I need to break down and buy/install a new one.

Prices range from around $130 up to almost $500 and they get glowing reviews at every price point. So, what would you buy if you were in my shoes?

Also, regarding the connection to the dishwasher, is there any way to clear and or keep the rank stuff out of that tube? I don't understand why they provide a ribbed tube. It seems more prone to collecting solids. I'm assuming that at least some of the gunk is from back flow from the disposal. Would it make sense to install a check-valve where the drain connects to the disposal?
And, how does someone clean that drain hose once it becomes gunky?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 03-07-17, 08:51 AM
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I install mostly 1/2HP Badger 5's, which are OK. A deluxe version is the ISE Evolution series.
The Evolution has a polished SS mounting ring and anti-vibration cushions. The interior is also SS and they are pretty quiet.

The DW drain hose should come into the cabinet at the bottom and go up to a high loop or preferably an air gap. Keeping the hose as low as possible and then going up allows the hose to empty as much as possible and let air in to dry it a little. For most models, like Kenmore/Whirlpool, the stores should have plenty of extra hoses laying around or sell you one.
 
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Old 03-07-17, 11:26 AM
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Thanks Brian (@Handyone),

The Evolution looks like a good unit. It has a better warranty than the Badger.
The one with the SS interior is selling for $208. The next one down (Evolution Compact 3/4 HP) does not have the SS interior, but still looks like a very good unit. It's selling for $180, but I'd need to order that one.

Regarding the DW drain; my DW is to the left of the sink. The DW discharge is from the bottom left of the DW. My disposal is on the right hand side of the double basin sink, so the DW discharge hose needs to travel its full length. I have the DW hose travel along the bottom of the DW space then up the sidewall that is shared with the sink. Does that cause enough of the loop you described? I just watched a video where the guy used the air gap accessory. Do you think it's worth adding the air gap?

Would it make sense to periodically flush out the DW drain hose?

Thanks again.
 
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Old 03-07-17, 03:32 PM
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IMO running the hose up inside the DW opening is incorrect. The hole for the hose should be in the far back side bottom, water line also.
You can extend the hose with a 7/8" barbed coupler and 7/8" ID hose, which is common.

For me an air gap is the best way. They are required here and I don't get call backs on DW installations.
 
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Old 03-14-17, 07:44 PM
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Thanks for your advice Brian (@Handyone).
It's interesting that, in California, air gaps are required by code, yet, here in Western New York, few people knew what I was talking about when I looked for one. Neither a local plumbing supply nor a local HD stocked air gaps. I did, however, order one from HD online. Now, I'm having a hard time finding a 7/8" ID hose to go from the air gap to the disposal. HD did have 7/8" ID in 10' (too long--not willing to pay for much more than I need). They also had 2' lengths, but that's probably too short since the hose will need to run from the back of the sink and then make a hard 180 degree turn to attach to the front of the disposal. BTW. I settled on an Insinkerator Evolution Compact 3/4HP unit.
I just finished hooking up the Insinkerator without the air gap, but I do plan on adding it as soon as I can find a 7/8" ID hose of appropriate length.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 03-15-17, 05:13 AM
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2' is long enough (standard sell length and you will cut it shorter) however the hose cannot take a hard turn, it will kink and the hose is stiff enough to knock the air gap out of position.
There also should be no dips in the hose.
I would recommend an additional hole at the left and fill the existing hole with a soap dispenser or filter faucet.
 
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Old 03-16-17, 07:39 PM
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Thanks again Brian (@Handyone),
I think that, in order to connect a hose from the air gap to the disposal without a sharp bend, I'd need to rotate the disposal quite a bit. I'd then have to change the configuration of the drain pipes and trap in order to align with a re-positioned disposal outlet.
I hadn't planned on all of those changes. I may be out of my depth. :-(
 
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Old 03-17-17, 08:58 AM
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You can always just stick with the high loop and extend the drain line.

An option is to make your own elbow for the 7/8" hose from air gap (they are not available off the shelf AFAIK).
Use a 3/4" copper elbow with a short section of copper soldered into each end. Clamp the fittings and check for leaks. Ideally the elbow would be barbed, but the smooth copper should work without leaks.
That will give you a 90 turn into the disposer.
 
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