New Shower Install

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-06-17, 02:06 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
New Shower Install

I had to gut my master because of a leak. I am about ready to frame in for a new walk-in shower. I want to have a rain shower head above and a hand held on the wall. I need to be able to divert the water. I just want a valve that will switch from one to the other. I don't want use them at the same time. What do I need to get and where is a good place to get it?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-06-17, 02:25 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
You can probably visit a plumbing supply house for built in switches, but I am getting ready to do basically the same thing for a client and they have chosen this valve/diverter set up. MOEN Moentrol Pressure-Balancing Volume-Control 3-Function Transfer Shower Valve with Stops - 1/2 in. IPS/CC Connection-3320 - The Home Depot
 
  #3  
Old 04-06-17, 05:23 PM
Marq1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: USA MI
Posts: 4,351
Received 95 Votes on 86 Posts
I will recommend a brand not to get, Phiester.

Did our large walk in shower about 4 years ago and since then have had to replace 2 mixer cartridges, one handle, and a shower head due to rust. They replaced everything free of charge but the quality is crap.

When installing the mixing valve stem was way too long and the fit is wrong, very disappointed.
 
  #4  
Old 04-08-17, 02:24 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the responses. That looks like a slip fitting. I am using shark bites. Also, I don't think I need a volume control. I just want a simple divert from one head to the other. Is that possible?
 
  #5  
Old 04-08-17, 06:19 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Do you already have your control valve installed? Are your walls opened up? Do you plan on tiling over it all? You can find a diverter valve at a plumbing supply house that will act like an "A" or "B" diverter that you can put inline.
 
  #6  
Old 04-11-17, 07:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I don't have my control valve yet because I wasn't sure which way I was going to go. I've added a picture.
-The slate is as blank as can be. I did put up the outer wall for the shower last night.
-I am going to tile floor to ceiling.

Name:  Bath11.jpg
Views: 257
Size:  23.1 KB

I had to dig up the drain an move it because they had put it too close to the wall and no drain would fit on it.

I redid the toilet as well because the flange was crooked and below grade.

After all of the busting of concrete/re-concrete and the tile removal...I had to put self-leveler on the floor to fix all of the junk.
 
  #7  
Old 04-11-17, 08:54 AM
Marq1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: USA MI
Posts: 4,351
Received 95 Votes on 86 Posts
I am using shark bites
Just a word of caution, shark bites are ok but you might want to think about putting them inside a wall. They are not fool proof and if they did start leaking think of all the work you would have to do to get to them?

So what is the plan for inside the shower??
 
  #8  
Old 04-11-17, 11:51 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
Which hole is for the shower drain? Are you going to install a pre-slope? Give us your general game plan so we can scrutinize it for you.

You will need a 3 function diverter which is in addition to the on/off valve for the water. Most major companies supply one, however check with us as some have quirks such as universal rough ins that take different cartridges depending on if 3 way or 6 way diverter. In your case, as a 3 way, you have to make sure you plumb the correct pipes and cap the one that would go to a 3rd shower head so that it works with a 3 way.

I've shared this picture before, but this is a rough in for a shower head out of the ceiling and a hand held on the wall. This is a delta rough i with 3 way diverter. Note the right side upper port on the diverter is capped. That is used with a 6 way diverter set up.

Name:  IMG_0907a.jpg
Views: 245
Size:  39.6 KB

I will second the use of shark bites in the walls and ceiling. Limit them to where you can easily access them.
 
  #9  
Old 04-18-17, 01:57 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm including a crude drawing of my layout. Let me try to answer questions so you can help...which I greatly appreciate!

-The controls are on that wall so my wife doesn't have to get her hair wet turning it on.
-I decided to go with clips for my pex. I just got the crimper in from Amazon yesterday.
-I am planning to preslope. I used the goof proof system in my daughter's bathroom. Do you think that is necessary? I have to buy the extensions for the pre-slope and the regular floor since I am not using a center drain.
-The 2" PVC that hasn't been cut yet is the shower drain.
-I went and talked to Ferguson, but they wasn't much help. He wanted to sell me everything. I just want the diverter. I may give up on it if it is going to be too much of a problem. What does that diverter cost like the one in the picture?
-I am going floor to ceiling tile inside and then tiling the outside half wall.
-After reading some other threads here and at a plumbing forum, I made the opening 28" for the walk-in.


I just need to get moving. It's been too long without this bathroom. My daughter graduates in May and that means lots of company.

Thanks for the help

BG
 
Attached Images  
  #10  
Old 04-20-17, 11:23 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So far I have found a Kohler with a 3 way diverter, but their other fixtures are expensive! And then I have to find matching hardware for the diverter.
 
  #11  
Old 05-08-17, 02:24 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So, I gave up on the extra valve and sprayer idea. It was going to cost me a minimum of 200-300 extra to do it. I just bought a Delta with the showerhead/sprayer combo. I got all my plumbing lines run and my pre slope poured over the weekend. Picture attached.

So I was wondering what the best way is to stub out for the toilet line with pex. I got a pex fitting stop that is a 1/4 turn. Is that Ok to use or do I need to stub it a different way? With a full turning stop? do I bring it as far out as the finished wall will be? You can see it in the picture.
 
Attached Images  
  #12  
Old 05-08-17, 02:48 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Toilet stub looks fine. It should be beyond finished wall and supported. You don't want it flopping all over the place. Put some No-Nail plates over all your piping where they are inserted into the notches and on both planes in the corner. You don't want to drive screws through them. Install 2x12 pieces centered at 34" above your slope all around the shower. This will allow the installation of handicap rails either now or in the future should the need arise.

What ARE those pipes around the perimeter of the shower?
 
  #13  
Old 05-09-17, 09:08 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 81
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the heads up on the No-Nail plates. Those aren't something I have used before. It may explain why they hadn't completely attached the drywall to studs in some places. Yes really...I have a video.

For the stub, what is the best way to support that?

As far as the Lines along the wall, that is just some of the typical brilliance I have run into on anything in this house. Those are the supply lines. You can see in these new pictures how they were just run along the wall and on the floor under a shower insert. They cut the notches and I just had to match it where I couldn't drill through the studs. That's also why I had to make that modified corner stud to go where the shower entrance is going to be.

That's also what it looked like under the insert. It had leaked because of a lack of support and then they hadn't put concrete back in around the drain. Water plus dirt equals roots, etc!!

Do you think I should go ahead and put a hand rail in?

Thanks again for the help!!
 
Attached Images   
  #14  
Old 05-09-17, 01:24 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
For the toilet stub, lay in a 2x4 or other piece between the left stud and the pipe, on edge tall enough to allow you to clamp the PEX to it and screw the 2x into the stud and into the base plate. That should be sturdy enough.

As far as the rails go, you won't install them until the tile is complete. It is always a good idea to have them installed to help prevent falls and to help someone up who has fallen. The 2x12's allow you the option of doing it now or in 10 years.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: