Can Not Remove Outdoor Spigot

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  #1  
Old 09-17-17, 08:45 AM
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Can Not Remove Outdoor Spigot

The outdoor spigot has been dripping for sometime now. Most suggestions are to replace the washer so I decided to give it a go. I could not get the turning handle off because of a rusted screw. I loosened the packing nut but could not get the stem, or whatever it's called, out. I tried turning the handle hoping it would help but could not get it to budge any further. I did not want to force anything for fear of winding up with a major problem. I happened to crack the nut when putting it back but so far it is not leaking at the crack

Any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old 09-17-17, 09:57 AM
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It would be important for us to know what type of faucet you are working on. Please post a picture of it here.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 09-17-17, 04:02 PM
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Picture (hopefully)

I hope this works, I could not find the advanced with the paper clip.
 
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Old 09-17-17, 04:07 PM
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You need two pipe wrenches. Put one on the tee fitting and the other on the faucet. Then turn it until it comes off. You should not have a problem. Of course turn off the water from inside 1st.

I'm assuming that valve on the bottom is another hose on the outlet from the supply line that comes from the inside.
 
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Old 09-17-17, 05:39 PM
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Good job. That's a 1/2" female boiler drain valve. Easier to replace rather then repairing it.

1/2 in. Brass FPT x MHT Boiler Drain-VBDSTDB3EB - The Home Depot

lowes/AMERICAN-VALVE-1-2-in-Female-Brass-Boiler-Drain-Valve/3363864
 
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Old 09-18-17, 05:18 AM
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I'm with PJmax. If the screw is rusted and can't be removed easily I'd just replace the whole valve. Get the new valve and some teflon tape (also in the plumbing dept.). Turn off the water to the house. Open the spigot to relieve the pressure. Use wrenches to unscrew the old valve. Wrap the exposed male pipe threads with 2 or 3 turns of teflon tape. Then screw on your new valve and tighten. Turn the house's water supply back on and check for leaks.
 
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Old 09-18-17, 05:44 AM
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Thank you all for responding. My problem is getting the valve off. Can I use a hammer to gently tap it out?
 
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Old 09-18-17, 08:37 AM
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Tapping won't do much. Follow the 2 pipe wrench idea, one facing downwards on the nipple coming out of the wall & the other facing upwards on the valve. You can also put a 2" diameter pipe say 2' long, on the end of the pipe wrench for more leverage. The pipe goes on the wrench on the valve.
 
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Old 09-18-17, 10:42 AM
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I just picked up a boiler drain fitting suggested by Pjmax. I showed the pic to the guy at Home Depot and he said to make sure the fitting on there was not welded on. Since it has threads on there I don't think it is a weld. It has been painted over a few times so I put some paint remover on it. I don't know if the paint acts the same way as it does on windows that are painted shut. Will tackle it a bit later.
 
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Old 09-18-17, 03:05 PM
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Look at my post #4 and Donato,s post #8. Get two pipe wrenches. Don't know how to explain it any easier. You put one pipe wrench in the tee fitting facing down. The other pipe wrench facing up against the old valve. Then you pull up on the wrench that is holding the valve and push down or steady the pipe with the other wrench. If need be put a pipe on the end on both or one of the wrenches. It will come off. That valve is not soldered on the pipe. But the tee fitting is.
 
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Old 09-18-17, 03:32 PM
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You may be able to remove it with one wrench on the red part. You need to turn that counter-clockwise when facing the valve. If it won't loosen..... you may need to add a second wrench or channel lock pliers on the blue area. You don't want to break the tee off the wall. The brown arrow is the point where the valve will break free. It's not soldered on.... just threaded on.
 
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