How do I replace the faucet and handles on a tub

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  #1  
Old 11-05-17, 12:22 PM
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How do I replace the faucet and handles on a tub

So, attached is a pic of the tub faucet and handles.

as you can see, it looks to be rusted at the faucet base..

how do i get the old faucet off and also get the handles off to and replace with a new faucet and handles ?

thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 11-05-17, 01:24 PM
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Hole in back of spout should have a set screw. Might be a allen screw, Knob the the plastic center pops off and there is a screw under there,
 
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Old 11-06-17, 05:37 PM
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thanks ...

i will see if it is not too rusted out ,,,,
 
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Old 11-06-17, 11:00 PM
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Hit it with PB Blaster or similar (not WD-40) for a couple of days before trying to back it out. If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 12:01 AM
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Unless you have a removable panel on the side or back of the tub enclosure (might be on the other side of the wall) you will never be able to change that faucet. Or else you will need to make such a panel.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 03:41 AM
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I agree there should be an access panel on the opposite side of the wall that the faucet is located. BUT... over the past 30 years or so, builders don't seem to care about that any more. On my upstairs bath the plumber put the faucet side against the stair well wall, thereby eliminating the possibility of making an access panel for servicing. If he flipped it the other way I could've had a hidden panel on the opposite room.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 11:25 AM
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An access panel is probably not needed. The spout, valve cartridges/stems and handles should be replaceable from above.

Here's a typical diagram of a tub faucet. The valve body (underside) is installed during construction. The valve body is considered permanent and access should not be required.

The valve body is designed to accept different styles of spouts and handles. Pay no attention to the measurements, this is just for reference.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 11:27 AM
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I'm thinking he doesn't want to replace the valve body. At least he never said so. Just wants to do a cosmetic change.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 02:34 PM
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Yep Vic, that was the point of my post. It's like a shower body, there is no need to go into the wall to change the style of handles or the spout.
 
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Old 11-07-17, 05:54 PM
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Think you were typing same time as me.
 
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Old 11-08-17, 04:42 PM
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I was able to loosen and back out the set screw on the faucet. I did not remove it yet as we have not picked out a new one.
With it being so rusted, not sure ow easy it will be to remove.

I next have to get the tops off of the handles.

There are no access panels that i can see in the pic or looking over the tub.
 
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Old 11-08-17, 06:03 PM
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I think your faucet might be a Moen. Here's a view that should help you with disassembly. If it is a Moen, they can help you get new parts if there is any old stock.
Once again no access panel is needed to replace everything above. Access from below is only needed if you want to replace the entire faucet and valve body. That is serious work and I think it can be avoided.
Don't remove the bottom "hardware kit"
 
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Old 11-08-17, 11:09 PM
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No access panel means that he can only replace the trim with exactly what's there now-- not the faucet itself. IMHO there should always be access. I bet there are joints under there that aren't soldered. And how could the waste & overflow be replaced if it ever needed it (which it will someday)?
 
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Old 11-08-17, 11:31 PM
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can only replace the trim with exactly what's there now
Well, that's not true at all. Many faucets use the exact same valve body, differentiating them only by the trim that is included. IIRC, many Pro's will buy the valves they like and then the customer picks out the trim style and finish (or at least it used to be that way). Makes it easier all around as the customer doesn't choose something that requires different framing or piping. This was in developments of course, not spec or custom homes which are normally one offs.

Once you know the valve body manufacturer you have many options as to style and finish both OEM and aftermarket...unless it's just so old nothing is available.
 
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Old 11-09-17, 03:27 AM
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Depending on where the tub is located there might be an access panel in the crawl space, basement or garage overhead.
 
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Old 11-09-17, 11:46 AM
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There are some good points made above. A Moen valve body is designed to accept many types of faucet styles.
Trying to figure it out on your own or on the web is going to be very difficult. If you call Moen they have the info needed and can tell you what fixtures are available for the valve body.

If you look at the faucet picture and the diagram posted, it's pretty much an exact match.
 
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Old 11-13-17, 05:04 PM
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thanks ,,

i will get in touch with Moen and see what they say...

I think we may go with something that matches the sink faucet if possible I replaced (other posting that seemed to go on for a long time!)
 
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Old 11-22-17, 10:46 AM
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i got in touch with Moen and they confirmed the bathtub facet is indeed a Moen.

They provided ta doc on the process to see what other Moen faucets.

"This guide can be utilized to determine if the M*Pact Moen Roman Tub Trim will be compatible with an older Moen roman tub valve. "

However, the doc is to large to upload (52kb) to the forum.

Of course, they did not say if other manufactures faucets would work.
 
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Old 11-22-17, 01:31 PM
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There's no need to upload the document. The doc explains clearly what to look for to see if your older valve body is compatible with new trim.
Other manufacturers will not work, you will be lucky if the Mpact fits.
The first step is to measure the spout shank. If it measures under 1-3/8" you are stuck with the same spout or a different finish only.
 
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Old 12-22-17, 10:56 AM
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I am back at it ,,i removed the screw and ,I tried to remove the faucet to measure from the deck to the top of the copper that the spout connects

but it won't budge,,looks like plumbers putty was added and it is really stuck on there (see pic)

any ideas on how to get this unstuck so i can lift the faucet off without breaking something
 
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  #21  
Old 12-22-17, 11:07 AM
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Put some plastic tape on the tip of a screwdriver to protect against scratching and then gently try prying up and working all around the spout. Go easy and keep working around many times. Now you know why plumbers get paid big bucks.
 
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Old 12-22-17, 01:21 PM
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Use a utility knife with plenty of sharp blades. Try cutting the caulk without damaging the surface. The cuts need to be made gradually.
This is why I recommend silicone only, adhesive caulk will get rock hard.
The good news is just by looking at the picture, the shank is probably less than 1-3/8" and will allow you to use the M*Pact parts.
 
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Old 12-23-17, 09:16 AM
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i will attack this after Christmas and the New year as time permits. I will need to check the handles. I recall i looked and there is a white plastic nut as in the photo below and this requires the thread to be checked ?

I think the replacement may be Model t994 listed below. Min Spout Shank height for 1 3/8

https://www.supply.com/moen-chateau-...4-chrome/p7731
 
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Old 12-23-17, 09:30 AM
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Call Moen if in doubt, they are helpful. Here's a quote:


"If this is a white plastic nut, then the threads inside of the valve body will need to be investigated. First, turn off the water pressure going to the unit. Second, unscrew this white plastic nut and remove the stem extension / handle adapter. Finally, inspect the interior of the valve body.
o If the valve body is threaded all the way down to the cartridge, then any of the current handles can be used, but the stem extensions and the chrome metal nut will need to be removed and replaced with the stem extensions located in Moen Service Kit 106378. This kit includes both hot and cold stem extensions. There is no need to investigate any further.
o If the valve body is not threaded all the way down to the cartridge, then the new handles cannot be used. The only option would be to replace the valve body and trim."
 
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Old 12-24-17, 10:23 AM
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My concern on the spot/faucet,,is once i chisel it loose ,,and get it off, if there is a leak, i am not sure how to fix it.
I don't know if the rust shown is from a leak or just moisture over the last 20+ yrs

There is no access to the under side of the tub in case access is needed

Wonder if it is best left alone until the bathroom is remolded in 3-5 yrs?
 
  #26  
Old 12-24-17, 12:01 PM
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All you have to do is get the spout off without scratching the tub. Any type of leak can be addressed later. These spouts have O-rings that are designed to be leak-free.
The caulk is dark because of moisture/mildew, no big deal.
Keep the faucet intact or make sure you can reinstall it until all the new parts are on hand.
 
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