circa 1987 Delta shower valve cartridge replacement

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  #1  
Old 07-10-19, 07:34 PM
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circa 1987 Delta shower valve cartridge replacement

Attached photo shows circa 1987 Delta shower valve that's leaking by at 20dpm.

Is the following the correct replacement cartridge?

Cartridge Assembly -1300/1400 Series (04/2006 and earlier) -Model RP19804

Nearest retail is >1HR away, therefore want to verify shopping the Right Stuff.

Any related tips/recommendations appreciated!

THANKS
 
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  #2  
Old 07-10-19, 07:47 PM
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Without an exact model of your faucet.....I'd recommend pulling the cartridge out and taking it with you.
 
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Old 07-10-19, 07:59 PM
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Can't tell from the picture where your machine screw holes are. The 1300 and 1400 had a pair of machine screws diagonal from each other... top right, bottom left. The 1600 had a pair below the handle... lower left, lower right. They take different cartridges. The 1600 cartridge is RP1991. The various 600 series (6xx) also has 2 screws below, but it doesn't even have a cartridge... it has ball, seats, springs, cam packing.

See pages 66-73. https://www.deltafaucet.com/for-prof...ogs--brochures

I agree you should disassemble it and see which schematic fits your faucet.
 
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Old 07-10-19, 08:10 PM
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Thanks for your response PJMax-

If no posters can confirm the RP19804 replacement cartridge is correct, or at least a "best bet", then I'll buy the RP19804 cartridge to have on hand when removing the current cartridge and hope it's the right one.

Water to entire house will be S/D, therefore goal is to avoid inconvenience of extended outage due to complications (cartridge damaged by removal, and/or wrong cartridge on hand, or correct cartridge not readily available).

From a short Google search, appeared that Model RP19804 is the replacement for 1987 cartridges -just looking for responses from anyone with knowledge in this regard.
 
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Old 07-10-19, 08:21 PM
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Thanks XSleeper -that's good info-

Think there's a pair of screws below the handle... lower left, lower right.
This is at a relative's house, will have them verify.

At the link U provided, which brochure do I select to view pp 66-72?

THX
 
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Old 07-10-19, 08:24 PM
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Sorry thought i was pasting the right one... it's in the Delta 2000 parts catalog. I worry that its not a cartridge.
 
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Old 07-10-19, 08:40 PM
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Thanks -got it.

Similar handle is shown on pp for the 600 series and for the 1300/1400 series.

Assuming that's a clue, appears verification of the screw location will narrow this down to one or the other(?)

THANKS
 
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Old 07-10-19, 08:50 PM
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Well since this is a 1987 faucet, I would just guess it's 600 series with the old ball / seat / springs. You will know once you disasemble. I think all the others are far too modern. Yeah, the screw location is a big clue.

I bet if you take the handle off, you will see the RP250 adjusting ring (page 66).
 
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Old 07-11-19, 05:05 AM
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Do you pull it straight out to turn it on, and it rotates only clockwise or counterclockwise to control the temperature, then straight in to turn it off? Or is more of a joystick, as in mounted on a ball? I'm thinking it's the former, and if so I think you're on the right track with the cartridge. I only remember seeing a few with that style handle on a ball type, recall thinking that they either came out during the transition time or someone had installed a different handle because they like that style better.
 
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Old 07-11-19, 05:13 AM
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Like the dial shows, up turns it on... left and right twist controls temperature. I think it's a 600 series, no cartridge, just ball, seat, springs behind parts that are probably all corroded with lime and hard to remove.
 
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Old 07-11-19, 09:42 AM
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I'll have to take your word on what it says because between the image getting more grainy as I enlarge it and having to wear my old trifocals because I broke my newest ones I can't quite make it out. But in that case I will add what I was going to mention before. If it is a ball, and if you compare the old one to the new one you might see a slight difference in the length of the slots in the ball that sit over the pins in the faucet. But if it's like the one I was working on that's okay. I remember noticing it right away and toying with it a bit, and can't remember now if I actually heard or read this or got there on my own, but came to the conclusion that the reason for the difference was to reduce movement toward "hot" on the older "pre-tempering" valves. Otherwise though it worked fine and still had plenty of hot water.
 
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Old 07-11-19, 11:37 AM
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Screws are left/right below the handle -therefore it's either a 1600 series (RP1991 cartridge) or 600 series (ball/seats/springs/cam packing).

At next opportunity, will remove the handle to look for the RP250 adjusting ring (page 66) indicating it's a 600 series.

If a 600 series, this will be first time replacing a ball/seat/spring vs a cartridge.
Is this a generic procedure that's normally not a big challenge?
Is a standard rebuild kit sold that will stop the 20dpm leakby?

THANKS
 
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Old 07-11-19, 11:50 AM
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A couple more pieces, but no, I would not call it challenging at all. The only "tricky" part, and it's not really, is getting the old cups and springs out and the new ones in. I just grab a scribe from my machinists box, one with a straight end and a crooked end to lift the springs out, but a piece of wire or a pair of tweezers will work fine. As I mentioned, the ball has a slot or two, and the fixture has a corresponding dimple, pin, whatever you want to call it, so lines right up.
 
  #15  
Old 07-11-19, 12:14 PM
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Appears case closed with this verified as a 600 Series since the handle is lifted to turn on the water(?)

haha- Replies appear to contradict?
"assuming you can get it apart" vs "not challenging at all"

Have a hook&pick set that should work well to remove the springs.

The linked renovation kit is pricey, and has only 19 reviews-
Leads me to wonder if replacing vs renovate could be the more common and better decision for this @32year old valve?

THANKS
 
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Old 07-11-19, 12:18 PM
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It's that outside ring that is sometimes hard to turn loose. Have some crl or limeaway and a toothbrush handy.

Well, replacing means tearing the wall open and replumbing it... so no, that's not the cheaper option. LOL

As far as plumbing goes, I wouldn't say that $40 is pricy. It will look like brand new once your done.
 
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Old 07-11-19, 12:32 PM
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Thanks XSleeper-

Will order the renovation kit, and be ready for a battle to remove the old valve.

Your time and provided info (and others responding) much appreciated!

Surfin'
 
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