Bathroom sink drain leaking after reassembly

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Old 02-15-20, 10:50 AM
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Bathroom sink drain leaking after reassembly

Hello. I have this kind of bathroom sink.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/opNp1KCEBmsVUXjM8

It was draining slowly. I took off the P strap and cleaned it. It was empty.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/96XeqHTf8vimgwJo6

Then I removed the American Standard Speed Connect drain to clear the clog, which I successfully did.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5vkWBBxr8L9ocNRx8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Uceq2HHAv3kk2mVC6

But I couldn't figure out how to reconnect the drain, even after watching multiple Youtube videos. I couldn't get the stopper to open and close because I was struggling with the placement of the L-shaped part and cam. Finally, I got the line between the stopper and the cam to stay on even though the stopper was not working properly and was stuck in the up position.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZE6CLZuQeiji48fa6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2NaYv87kEQcZXQWG6

When I reassembled the drains, which I did by screwing them back together, I got a leaky drain.

https://youtu.be/cCPujioWgLw

The water appears to be coming from were the silver drain meets the plastic, though I can't say it isn't coming from anywhere else.

My guess is that one of the problems lies in the connection of the two SILVER drain parts. You can barely see it, but you have to screw a silver drain part into the one that is coming down from the sink before you can attach the plastic part. See the circle here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8i6tFTnVYKytgC8a6

Again, there are grooves so you can screw the bottom metal piece right in. But there is a washer and I have no clue regarding whether it must go on the top or bottom metal pipe.

Finally, I did not use any of the sticky stuff I frequently see plumbers wiping on pipes when they assemble them. Never needed it when I've cleared the P trap in my kitchen sink drain so figured I didn't need to do so here.

So, after all that, two big questions: (1) how do I get the drain to stop leaking; and (2) how do I get the stopper to work correctly. Getting the drain to stop leaking is decidedly more important. I can live with a stopper that is stuck in the up position. I don't use it in the down position.

Thank you!!!
 
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Old 02-15-20, 11:12 AM
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That is a one piece stainless tail. It's not leaking from that. There should be a nylon washer under that top nut that fits the pipe snugly. Make sure it slides up and down the chrome pipe snugly and the tapered part is down.

In the picture the seal ring is red. Yours will be clear nylon. You can see the taper side down.

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If you have the washer in the right orientation..... just tighten it more.
A little at a time until the water stops.

.
 
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Old 02-15-20, 01:25 PM
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Those are two silver pipes. I know because I screwed them together. I'll take it apart and show you the pictures and then post them here.
 
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Old 02-15-20, 04:48 PM
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Ok.... it's one pipe. Did you just have it apart ? If not.... then it's not likely to be the problem.
 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:43 AM
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Looking at the video it does look like the seal ring is upside down.

Also there should be a o-ring on the stopper.
 
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Old 02-16-20, 06:56 AM
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The following should help with the pop up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrZoFcHNjdo
 
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Old 02-16-20, 09:33 AM
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Thanks. I watched that video. That's how I took it apart. But the explanation about how to reconnect it is unclear. The guy who made the video even had problems at first. But stopping this leak is more important.
 
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Old 02-16-20, 10:17 AM
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Here's of video of the drain disconnect

Hopefully, this video will help you guys help me out. Any tips would be tremendously appreciated.

https://youtu.be/17eD7vo20dw
 
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Old 02-16-20, 12:44 PM
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I don't think that washer should be between the metal pipes but you do need sealant there. You can use teflon tape on the threads or plumbers joint compound. Take that washer out as there is nothing for it to seal against.

For your info..... you just need to remove the bottom of the ptrap. The tailpiece and the tailpipe extension to the sink doesn't need to be taken apart.

Seal the metal piece. Put the nut on then the seal washer then the tailpiece extension. Snug that up. Then you can just put the bottom of the trap on.

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Old 02-16-20, 01:10 PM
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Yes take that washer off that chrome tailpiece that screws up into the other. Wrap the threads with teflon tape and dab it with some teflon paste and screw it back in there.


 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:36 PM
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What about the plastic washers that correspond to the slip joints? Did I line them up correctly in the video. I don't know if the slanted part should be facing down or up for this kind of set-up?

 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:46 PM
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Yes washers are now correct. Cone down. Add some teflon paste to the washer also.
 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:48 PM
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But that top washer on the chrome tailpiece gets removed
 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:52 PM
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Old 02-16-20, 03:53 PM
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Thx. Just dab some joint compound on the plastic washers?

I understand what to do with the chrome piece.
 
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Old 02-16-20, 03:59 PM
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Old 02-16-20, 07:58 PM
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Old 02-16-20, 08:01 PM
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Old 02-17-20, 08:18 AM
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Thank you. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
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Old 02-22-20, 05:14 PM
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Hello guys. I just did exactly what you told me to do. The leak is much slower now, for sure. But it didn't go away. But it appears that the leak is now being caused by water that is escaping from the connection between the gray part on the speed connect drain and the back of the silver drain where the L shaped part and other plastic piece go. And, again, I am baffled when it comes to reinstalling that part properly. I'll go back and watch that Youtube video on installing the speed connect drain again but I don't know what good it will do. Any suggestions? Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-22-20, 08:17 PM
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Detailed video of speed connect drain

Hello again guys. Really need your help here. Put the drain back on today. Didn't work. Although I think that one of the drain pipes needs to be put on yet again, it appears that the main problem is that water is leaking from the connection between the American Standard speed connect drain and the back of the drain pipe. Here's a detailed video of the problem I'm facing when trying to reconnect the stopper cord to the back of the drain pipe. I really really would appreciate your help because I'm at my wit's end here. Been going at this for hours without success. Thanks a million.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYTt...ature=youtu.be
 
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Old 02-22-20, 08:59 PM
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Do you have the actual instruction sheet ? It looks pretty straight forward.
American Standard speed connect drain instructions (pdf)
 
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Old 02-23-20, 05:21 AM
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FWIW...Is your piping plumb? That is key. If the drain coming off the sink is not straight and plumb with the P-trap and drain pipe into the wall, you'll never get that to stop leaking. If you can't get it line up straight then use those flex corrugated tail pieces. I don't like them and I try to avoid using them, but sometimes it's the only way. Also, replace all the washers, start new and fresh. If any parts look worn or stripped, replace. Worse case scenario, use lots of teflon tape or joint compound.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 05:51 AM
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Dude when yo pull the plunger up the drain goes down not up as you stated. That piece only goes in one way.. its not the 4 o clock position,, its 8 o clock..

when you push the plunger down the pop up comes up...
 
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Old 02-23-20, 07:15 AM
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I might have incorrectly stated that the stopper comes up at the beginning of the video. Forgive me. I never used it.

So I pressed it down and tried over again. Still didn't work.

At 0:49, this video plainly indicates that it's in the 4 or 5 o'clock position, which, again, is a position I cannot turn it to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E29oPuNNWZw
 
  #26  
Old 02-23-20, 08:33 AM
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I would not worry about the position too much.
Just get the L piece in so it can rotate between the stops, is in the cutout of the popup and allows the cover to snap on.
I am used to the other ball and arm type so to tell if it is in try lifting the pop up. , It should not be able to pull out.
Also turn the L piece by hand to see if it raise and lowers the pop up.

Once all together you should be able to hold the pop up lever in the correct place so it will open/close the pop up correctly in case you are not in the correct location.

Perhaps getting a friend over to give you a hand would help.
Do not tell them anything just let them look at the videos and go from there.
Sometimes you can get yourself going in circles and a fresh set of eyes can be a great help.
I have been there and done that many times over the years.


 
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Old 02-23-20, 09:32 AM
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"Do you have the actual instruction sheet ? It looks pretty straight forward."

Yes, but the cam won't turn once the washer is snapped into place over it. Regular flat head screw driver, even short one that fits in space behind drain, won't work because can't adequately grab onto cam. Can't think of tool that would fit down into cam, which has a diameter of approximately 7mm, and screw it. In fact, I can't even buy a replacement cam because I don't know what the model number for the sink or stopper is. Any suggestions? Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 10:27 AM
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A good look at the pesky cam

This video, which is shorter than the last ones, will give you a good look at the pesky cam that I cannot manage to, in accordance with the manual, turn clockwise once the washer is snapped in place over it. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/d0tbL5lfPjY
 
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Old 02-23-20, 11:03 AM
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OK so now you can get the L piece and the snap on installed.
Is this correct.
I am not sure why you want to turn it with a screwdriver.

If the L piece is in and it's retaining cap on and it is in the pop up's slot then hook up the the actuator cable assembly.
Give it a try.
If it does not work disconnect it.
Pull the drain lever/knob up and keeping it up connect the actuator to the L piece.

Now does it work?

 
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Old 02-23-20, 12:03 PM
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No, it still doesn't work

Manden, here's a video to show you that I followed your instructions:

https://youtu.be/goLYpLoEYNY

 
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Old 02-23-20, 12:09 PM
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The bright side . . .

Hello guys. At least there is no leak when I remove the stopper and connect the "speed" connect drain. So what you guys told me to do regarding the teflon tape and compound worked. I also tightened the nuts that screw down over the washers with channel-locking pliers, which seemed to help, especially with the plastic pipe that is connected to the metal pipe that comes down from the sink.

I'm still interested in putting the stopper back in if I can get it to work right, if only for aesthetic purposes.

But, even if I never get that far, this job was a success insofar as I cleared the clog in my bathroom sink, which was causing water to back up.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 12:45 PM
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You are close but just out of sync.

This thing is getting frustrating for me so it must be driving you crazy.

Before I go any further the pop up looks like it is missing an Oring or seal. There should be one in the channel at the top of it. Thought of this when I saw it drop below the sink fitting in your video so checked your earlier pictures.

I hate to ask you to do this again but I would remove the L piece and the stopper.
Then reinstall just the L piece,
One of the videos I watched said the popup could be installed either locked ( L piece in the slot) or unlocked so the popup (stopper) could be removed for cleaning. Since I am sure you do not want to go through this again even if you will be a pro by then.

Once the L piece is in use the actuator to get it in the up position re: the L at the top.
You should be able to see the position with a flashlight looking down the drain.
This may take some fiddling.
Then disconnect the actuator and put the knob where it should be for up.
Then reattach the actuator.

 
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Old 02-23-20, 01:04 PM
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Thanks. I don't understand how I am supposed to use the actuator (i.e., the cable) to get the L at the top. The cable screws onto the back of the drain. I can take the washer cap and L-shaped cam off for sure. Then I can put the L-shaped cam back in. But the only think I can do with the cable is to screw it on the back of the drain.

Also, even assuming I can do this, it's unclear how the L-shaped cam would remain in the same position after disconnecting the cable assuming the cable can be used to control its motion.

Again, I really appreciate the help, but I just don't understand what you're telling me to do.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 01:44 PM
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Just one more caution with the popup because if it goes down to where it was then you will have a lot of troublbe trying to get it out. Tie a string or something to it so it can be aesily removed.

The actuator turns the L cam but only a certain amount because of the limit on the pull knob.
So if you look down the drain and pull up and the Lcam starts rotating up but you cannot get it all the way up. Then disconnect the actuator, the cam should stay where it was. Push the pull down, reconnect the actuator and then pull up and the cam should rotate more towards the top.
Once you get it to the top, disconnect the actuator, push the knob down.
So our position now is that the stopper would be up if it was installed.
The knob is down which is where you said it should be with the drain open.
Then when you reconnect the actuator it should be synced.
Then drop the stopper in so it rides on the L cam

Sorry for the confusion.
 
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Old 02-23-20, 05:44 PM
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I really appreciate the help. Unfortunately, the L-shaped cam comes up only half way. That is, the L is not facing down or up. Rather, it is facing 3 o'clock. This even though I followed the procedure you described to a tee. The knob simply won't raise once the L-shaped cam is in the 3 o'clock position.
 
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Old 02-24-20, 03:39 AM
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So now you can get it to move from 3:00 to down moving clockwise.
Correct?

What we need is for it to move from 9:00 to up moving clockwise.

Did the packing plastic piece ever come out of the drain tube.
What I m calling the packing is the plastic that stays in the drain tube and which limits the travel of the L cam.

The reason I ask is that in the following video at 0:50 it shows the L cam travel area on the right with the stops on the left.
Yours seems to be the opposite of this.

Clutching at straws now.

 
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Old 02-24-20, 06:12 PM
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I don't see anything else in the drain. Just the L-shaped cam. Obviously, I can put the retaining cap over that.

Yes, the cam moves from the down position to 3 o'clock. It doesn't move beyond that.

I don't know if anything came out when I removed the stopper and cleaned out the drain. None of the videos I watched, which I did before I tried this job, mentioned anything about a plastic piece.

I can't believe they call this thing "speed" connect. What a misnomer.

 
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Old 02-24-20, 07:07 PM
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Below is a sheet from PJmax's earlier post
https://www.americanstandard-us.com/...8101.pdf?la=en

On the parts page it shows the cam assembly. This includes the Lcam and the snap on cap
But is also points to a cam seat insert.
This is what limits the travel of the Lcam.
It is a plastic insert in the chrome tail pipe.
So if it is not in correctly the then the Lcam cannot go in correctly because it's limit cam must fit into the correct area in the insert,
Looks like the insert is held in position by the cutouts where the snap on cap clips in.

Stop the below video at 4:27.
You can see the slot where the the cap snaps on but further in you can see a channel where the cam of the Lcam rides ( on the right hand side of the hole). I cannot find a video of a chrome one but I think yours has a plastic insert that does this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrZoFcHNjdo

You can also see it in figure J of the sheet.
The cam of the Lcam goes to the right.
You can also just see part of the travel limit insert at the bottom.

I am having a hard time explaining this.
 
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Old 02-25-20, 07:51 PM
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manden

Thanks. Yeah, it started to get quite confusing toward the end. Could you go back and watch my original video starting at 1:49, which shows the hole in the drain pipe that the cam goes into. That should help you explain what you're trying to say. I'm not giving up on this thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYTt...ature=youtu.be
 
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Old 02-25-20, 09:01 PM
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Pull the insert out and rotate it 180

https://www.homedepot.com/p/American...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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