Replacing bathroom sink faucet, drain pipe and add turn offs

Reply

  #1  
Old 08-22-20, 04:59 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 39
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Replacing bathroom sink faucet, drain pipe and add turn offs

I hope my picture downloaded. Looking for advice on plumbing project.

#1) I want to add turn off valves. Old P trap and drain tubes were also leaking. I just found out the last drain pipe that goes into old leaded pipe is epoxied on. Outside diameter is 1.25Ē. Since epoxy is holding and not leaking. Should I use pipe tube cutter so I can reuse this 1.25 drain pipe as a straight pipe? Iím assuming I can splice a compression type fitting. I may be able to clean up the threads and reused entire last piece of pipe and not cut it. Should I just cut in to the epoxy and replace that last drain piece?

#2) The hot water side has corrosion from copper to galvanized pipe. I havenít tried to unscrew that piece of pipe yet. I hope it unthreads. I know ideally it would be better to scrap the galv pipe and extend copper but Iíve never sweated copper pipe before. The galvanized pipe on cold side is not corroded.

Any guidance would be appreciated. I didnít expect this to be that much workÖ.but probably why Iíve put this project off for 4 months. I had to put caps on the 3/8 compression fittings so I could turn my water back on. Will work on the complete sink drain first.

Thanks in advance.

DRC

Cut out sheetrock. Text added to pic

Before I started. Drain pipes dripping.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 08-22-20, 05:14 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 25,807
Received 638 Votes on 590 Posts
Well first off, those drop ear elbows need to be anchored to the framing. I'd suggest you try to add a 2x4 horizontally between the existing vertical framing. Fasten it with a couple screws if you can... glue it to the drywall on back if needed. Once you put a couple screws through the holes in the drop ear elbows, you will be able to put a wrench on the galvanized pipe and loosen it. If you put a wrench on it now, you will likely bend the copper, break the solder, or both.

Shut your water off and with a pipe wrench, turn the old galvanized nipples off. At that point you need to decide if you want to learn to sweat copper or not. If you do, you would sweat about 4" of 1/2" copper to a male npt fitting. Then take that piece and screw it into your drop ear elbow along with some teflon tape and tfe paste.

Then you would be able to put a 1/4 turn 90 degree shutoff on the copper pipe. I'd use a compression shutoff that goes onto the 1/2" copper.

If you dont want to sweat, you would just put new galvanized nipples on... then put 1/4 turn 90 degree shutoffs that are threaded npt onto the nipples.

As for the drain, if you can remove the epoxy do that. If you need to cut the lead pipe back, you can do that too... just dont cut off more than you have to. You would put a shielded Fernco coupling fitting onto the lead pipe. Then put a street trap adapter into the fernco.
 
  #3  
Old 08-23-20, 07:10 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 39
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info. The copper pipe brackets ..drop ears..do have just 1 nail in each but need an extra on for other side. I was worried about that. Will add something to allow full attachment.

I looked up shielded Fernco coupling. If the outside diameters of leaded pipe and the 1.25 street trap arenít same diameter will that be a problem ? The coupling when tightened on the leaded pipe won't crush it? I guess in my mind I thought the 1.25 street trap would fit inside the leaded pipe. Iíll have to assess that when I cut the epoxy away. I DO want to do this right. Once done I done want to revisit this again. Thanks

If the galvanized pipe comes out okay will probably just go back with the same. I would try sweating copper but just donít have the confidence. Need to learn that on a test bench set up first I guess.

thanks again
DRC
 
  #4  
Old 08-23-20, 07:31 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 25,807
Received 638 Votes on 590 Posts
I'm not there to measure the outsude diameter of the pipe but suffice to say they make a size of Fernco that will slip over your lead pipe on one end, and slip over a trap adapter on the other end.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-...2114/100342402

No it will not crush the lead pipe, it will be tight long before it crushes it.

Using a Fernco will be far superior to gluing it together with epoxy.
 
  #5  
Old 08-23-20, 12:51 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 39
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Okay. Thanks. This is the type I had pulled up with the clamp rings.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-150/100372289


Thanks for the link.
 
  #6  
Old 09-15-20, 04:59 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 39
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Finished project. Ended up soldering new copper pipe

I finished this project awhile back. Just posting pictures. The galvanized pipes on both hot and cold were almost completely plugged. Decided the only way is to cut off and put on copper elbows and threaded end joint.

I spent a week watching YOUTUBE videos on soldering. Did pretty well on horizontal 1/2 copper in vise. Was easy when you can see the complete joint and aren't in tight quarters.

In the REAL world under the sink my soldering was not the best but so far it doesn't leak. I DID use tinning flux since I read that is what NEWBIES should use. I had a good feel with solder on the testing bench but here you can see I used too much on the horizontal joints.

I decided to cut off J Bend drain and use a coupler since the epoxied joint to leaded pipe has never leaked.
So far no leaks in water lines OR drain lines. I have a paper towel in heavy foil pan to watch for leaks.
The cold water was really difficult seeing backside but use a mirror to check coverage. Copper flexed enough using wet rag to push it out away from wall. Still used a fire blanket good for 2500 degrees and wet down rags and used water spray on sheet rock before soldering.I've uploaded 6 pics. Will put on brackets and will have to make a cover for sheet rock. All in all I feel good about it. Thanks for everyone's help and ideas.






 
  #7  
Old 09-16-20, 05:03 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,890
Received 225 Votes on 200 Posts
Good job. The only thing I question is your comment, "cleaned flux off copper before soldering". That's not right. The flux protects the joint while soldering. You don't want to wipe it off. You must of had enough residue in the fitting to get by. In the future do not wipe off flux. You can't have too much.
 
  #8  
Old 09-17-20, 10:08 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 39
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry the flux comment wasn't clear. In that particular picture I had already applied flux to both pipe and fitting and when pressed together you can see the flux around the joint built up and that's the amount I cleaned up per youtube videos. That was just residual flux that was pushed off when I assembled the pipes.
Thanks again.
drcwks
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: