Help With Best Way To Install Push Fit Shut Off Valve
I need to replace shut off valves under my 2 bathroom sinks. The space under each small about 11 inches from side to side. I'm thinking the SharkBite push fitting would be the best option because it would be incredibly tough to get a crimp or cinch tool in there and get enough leverage to squeeze and get the angle right.. The challenge with installing the push fit valves is that there isn't a good way to get enough leverage to push the fittings onto the pex pipe without pushing the pipes back into the wall. I'm thinking about maybe putting a worm gear type hose clamp on the pex right up against that metal piece where the pex goes into the wall. That way when I push the sharkbite onto the pipe, the clamp will press against that metal piece at the wall and hopefully prevent the pex pipe from pushing into the wall. Any feedback on this idea or any alternate ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I had a similar situation a while back. I had some paracord with me so I tied a prussic knot around the pipe. Then I used a screwdriver to push the knot as far back into the wall as it would go. I pulled on the cord to make sure the knot had a grip on the pipe and I kept tension on it. Cut the old shutoff valve off the end and installed the new valve.
So, be creative and work with whatever you have on hand to keep the pipe from popping back into the wall. Make sure you have the pipe grabbed before you cut the valve off as I've had them "pop" and spring back into the wall.
If the old valve passes water and the stem doesn't leak, you can remove the flex pipe (after closing water supply), attach a 1/4 turn valve (Keeney Mfg. #380734) to the vacated thread and reattach the flex pipe to the new valve. Leave the old valve full open.
I've been having this problem with my bathroom sink for years.
I think the waste drain pipes are configured incorrectly.
The main waste line under the sink is coming out of a side wall then connects to a straight pipe
then on to the curved pipe.
I also replaced the faucet and drain and this one here
you push it down to hold the water.
It seems to collect a lot of my hair.
I've snaked out the pipes a few times but it still drains very slowly.
Should that curved pipe be longer or should the straight pipe be tilted?
I've tried shimmying up the pipe with a stick and it worked for a while
and when it's level the water seems to sit there in the pipe and smell.
Now since it's acting up again I tried removing the stick
and moving the pipes but it still drains slowly.
I have no clue how to fix this and I can't afford a plumber.
I can do most diy jobs I just need to know
the proper configuration for this.
Can anyone help?
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I'm helping out a family member who needs a new toilet (cracked tank). And before installing a new toilet I was humoring the idea of getting rid if the weird rider it's on. I've seen this in older homes, but never really knew why they did it. There's an obvious vent involved here, but is there anything that should stop me from removing the riser, shorting the vent to the floor and shortening the toilet drain down to the floor as well?
I know there's some restrictions with length/angle on the toilet drain, but should I stay away from this idea? Any thoughts and info from the many wise folks here who are way smarter than me? Thanks! Much appreciated.
I attached a pic as well...
01-11-21, 06:35 AM
