Hello. Please see this short video. The water from my bathtub faucet is running feebly/slowly. Also, the water doesn't get hot when I take a shower. What is causing this? I can post more videos/pictures if you need them. Thank you!!!
It could be a couple of things,
How old is your hot water tank?
What brand is the faucet?
Are you getting full hot water from other faucets?
If your tank is ok and your getting hot water from other faucets, then I suspect the valve cartridge may be bad and need replacement.
When you say you need to run it awhile to get hot water, just how long do you mean? Remember, you need to flush out the cold water sitting in the pipes. How far away is the nearest faucet from the tank?
Most likely you're due for a new hot water tank. What temp do you have the tank set for?
Have you ever drained a gal of water from the valve at the bottom of the tank? Does it flow freely? if not it's most likely filled with sentiment.
Water coming from the faucet slowly and not hot water are two separate issues. If you have good water flow elsewhere in the house then it's likely a clogged cartridge or aerator screen in the bathroom. A lack of hot water is often a bad thermostat or burned out heating element in the water heater though sometimes it can be a clogged hot water line.
I concur with PD. The time for hot water coming from the other faucets seems reasonable. Assuming the flow from those faucets is full. Start with a new cartridge. I don't believe the tub spout has any kind of strainer to be cleaned.
OK. How do I look at the water heater to see if the water temperature is set high enough? Please see photo above. Also, I went to the circuit panel and turned off the breaker that is labeled water heater. But I still got hot water after I turned it off, and the water heater was still making a "gas" noise. So instructions on how to insure that I am cutting the power to this thing so I won't get electrocuted would be great.
Of course you're still getting hot water. It's full of hot water. And yes it will make noise. Moving water always makes noise. First off you don't need to turn off the power. Turn it back on. So you have an electric water heater. There should be a dial indicator that you can use to set the temperature, Typically it may be listed as Vac, Lo, Med. Hi. It most likely set to Med. Try raising it to hi.
Take a picture of the control or temperature knob.
Edit...My bad. You should turn off the power before trying to adjust temp. Some newer units have electronic exposed adjustments. Older units do not and you must remove the cover plates on both the top and bottom thermostats.
Do I need to remove those covers? I don't see any temperature knobs. They have screws holding them on.
And, I know you said what you said, but the water heater has an electrical connection coming from the top. Just don't want to get shocked while working on this thing. They way I look at it is better safe than sorry, right?
True. There should be some kind if temperature control on your heater. What is the model number?
I'm not as familiar with electric heaters as I have more experience with gas fired units. Perhaps one of our experts more familiar with electric heater of this particular model might chime in.
However, I don't think your immediate tub problem is with the heater. I think it's a cartridge problem as concerning the flow problem.
How can I tell if the water heater's power is truly off though? The guide to the breaker box clearly states that breakers five and seven (double-pole breaker) correspond to the water heater. But, unlike other appliances that you can turn on and off, it's unclear whether the water heater is off or on, even after turning off the breaker.
I never rely on how breakers are labeled. I always check with a meter to insure the power is off before sticking my tongue on bare wires. If you don't have a multi meter it is a VERY helpful tool when dealing with electrical things. Or, you can just turn off all the double pole (240v) circuit breakers as one of them will be for the water heater. This leaves the lighting circuits hot so you can see what you are doing.
I never rely on how breakers are labeled. I always check with a meter to insure the power is off before sticking my tongue on bare wires. If you don't have a multi meter it is a VERY helpful tool when dealing with electrical things. Or, you can just turn off all the double pole (240v) circuit breakers as one of them will be for the water heater. This leaves the lighting circuits hot so you can see what you are doing.
I like this workaround! I turned off all the other double poles and could test whether they cut power to those appliances. So, by process of elimination, we know that the one that the diagram labels as water heater does in fact control the water heater.
Tony, If you're not familiar with using a meter and touching possible live terminals, I would not even try. You have determined the heater is off. Now make your temp adjustments. Watch that the upper thermostat is not higher than the lower one. I think. Check it out on that video.
I know this is kind of late, but thanks guys. The water is noticeably hotter at 125 degrees F. I may take it up a little more, but this is good for now.
Last edited by TonySexton; 04-17-22 at 07:08 PM.
Reason: add detail
Okay. You said that it could be a "clogged cartridge or aerator screen." I have to do something; elsewise I'm going to lose all water pressure in the bathtub and shower.
Do I need to call a plumber? Also, maintenance here at my condo building is recommending for me to get a new hot water heater. Would I need a plumber for that too?
Norm, do you have any strategies for getting a good deal on a water heater? Is there something a should tell the plumber to make it more likely that he'll recommend a fairly priced water heater?
Will your plumber let you buy the heater (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) and will he do the install? Or does he insist you buy from him?
I don't care what others think, whatever brand is on "sale" will do the job. Yes, A.O. Smith is a good brand but not the where with all. Understand you get at best 7 to 10 years life. That is considered average. You may very well get more, but don't count on it.
If your plumber won't give you as good a price as the big box stores, then find another plumber.
That's my opinion. I'm sure others will not agree.
This is a rental built in the 60's. I'm having a guy do some joist work and put in a new floor, and I decided to get a new vanity and address the old shower/toilet pipes at the same time.
The threads where the bonnet nuts go on the tub handles have stripped out smooth on one side, and I've been having to replace cartridges about every 4 or 5 months from leaks. I'm assuming stripped threads pretty much means the whole shower valve needs replaced?
[url]https://i.imgur.com/sDSeGzk.png[/url]
I've done a lot of plumbing DIY, but have never messed with a shower valve, and I just use sharkbites on supply lines. Can I use sharkbites for a shower valve replace? I would probably put in an access panel, so I would have easy access to it for future issues/observations.
If this is something that's feasible, can anyone recommend aa shower valve -- either a specific model, or the general name of the type of valve -- that would be a good replacement? Just want something basic and inexpensive, and like I said, I've never dealt with shower valves before, so I dont know the lingo.
[url]https://i.imgur.com/puTKui1.png[/url]
[url]https://i.imgur.com/biqeH3i.png[/url]
Thanks for any input.
(If I had time, I would learn to solder, but I have a very short window to replace this, so I would prefer to use sharkbites right now.)
We managed to crack our Corian kichen sink. It's one piece with the counter. I don't believe it can be repaired (epoxied).
We dislike the current kitchen and have plans to redo it but I need a short term [u]inexpensive[/u] solution (and the current 5g bucket underneath doesn't meet that criteria).
I have 2 routers so I can cut the Corian, I realize I'll need a specialized bit.
Current Corian sink interior dimensions (where it transitions from granite to white in attached photo) is 21" x 15 3/4".
Counter depth is 25-1/4"
Cabinet width is the issue, only 23"
Our local plumbing store suggested this: [url]https://www.elkay.com/products/details/dse125221[/url] I can get it for around $160
Sink Dimensions: 25" x 22" x 8-1/16"
Bowl 1 Dimensions: 21" x 15-3/4" x 8"
But looking at the installation PDF the minimum cabinet width is 30". I contacted Elkay and they don't recommend installation with silicone only i.e without the under clamps (which I believe is where the 30" comes from).
Elkay suggested: [url]https://www.elkay.com/products/details/dxuh2115[/url] which confused me. The bowl size matches but again they recommend a 27" minimum cabinet width and at 23-1/2" I suspect it's too large to fit the 23" cabinet. Plus I have no idea how I'd secure it.
I don't really want to go to a smaller sink for practicality reasons.
Suggestions/tips welcomed.
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10-17-21, 03:54 PM
