Hello DIYers, and thank you for being here. Darned disposer. It hums when I turn it on but the motor won't engage. I've been working on it and the innards turn freely with the Allen wrench but the motor won't engage. Okay, I'll replace the darned thing. I already bought a new one and I started to detach the old one. First connection, CCW loosens easily by hand. But, the second connection won't budge. So, I'm not even sure I'm going after the right connect. I assume it's the one in the back in the photos because it has those notches but, well, I can't budge it by hand. Is there a tool I can use? Something to loosen it first? Is that the wrong place to be trying? Yep, a few photos so maybe some good advice from the DIY community.

Always grateful for your assistance. Ken

 

That's because everything on that side is glued together. You will have to cut out and replace.

 

The know, the subject of photo #3, probably can be loosened but that is the only removeable connection I see. Everything else is glued.

I would not cut the 90° fitting near the back of the cabinet. It looks like you will not have enough pipe left to attach another fitting which could turn this into a bugger of a job. I would plan your new piping so you can reuse that fitting.

 

It looks the only place to cut the pipe would be above the connecting piece with the bar code on it. Agree? And, I've never done that before. Hacksaw? And, can you tell if it's PVC or CPVC? Surprise :-). I haven't done much plumbing.

 

Yep... hacksaw... sawzall... oscillating multi-tool, etc.

 

The part with the bar code is a coupling. You can cut above or below but you must preserve enough of the pipe so you can glue on a new fitting. Since most everything is glued you can use a rubber boot (Fernco) coupling somewhere to allow you to take it apart in the future.

White drain piping is PVC. CPVC is usually only used on water supply lines and has a light yellowish beige color. You can cut either with anything you have on hand that will cut. A coarse blade in a hack saw will work but so will a fine toothed wood saw.

 

Yeah, it's me again. I must be missing something. it just doesn't seem so hard. Unscrew the connection (see photo) but then, if I cut the pipe - say an inch above the connector, how will I re-attach the new disposer. Is there a Fernco that will accommodate that black pipe to the PVC? Do you think I could fit in another connector and glue it? What about cutting above the connector AND below it? Does that sound like a plan?
Oooh, sorry to seem so plumbing ignorant.

 

Not sure why you started a new thread. All the needed info was in the old thread.
This picture would have been helpful there.

Threads combined.

If you are replacing like for like.... loosen the two locknuts and remove the pipe.
If that doesn't work.... loosen just the top locknut and the two screws holding the fitting to the disposer.
Remove the disposer right angle fitting.

 

Looks like the bottom locknut is glued.

And I don't know what you mean by "loosen just the top locknut and the two screws holding the fitting to the disposer.
Remove the disposer right angle fitting".

I'm afraid I need a little more explanation there - if I haven't already worn out my welcome.

 

No problem.... we've got lots of patience.

Look at your last picture. The top red arrow is pointing to a locknut. Loosen that.
Since the white drain line is hitting the cabinet... you can't lower it.

Instead... take the two screws out of the disposer that hold that black fitting on.
Once the screws are out... that black fitting should pull right out.

 

Done!! Thanks Guys. I Love this forum.
Turns out I didn't have to undo the top screws. The unit itself just screws onto that piece and that piece was re-usable since I just bought another disposer of the same brand.
Thank you all for your input and patience.

 

You're welcome.... good job.