I just spent 2 days with clogged kitchen sink. I ended up pouring full bottle and finaly water is gone.
I would like to buy some tool to clean the pipes before next problem. I've seen augers and snakes... Some people call it rotors or routers.
I need some advice what is best to buy?
I have several snakes. Each one is a different size for a different job.
My "go to " snake for basic clogs is my 25' Ridgid kwik spin.
Easy to use. Fairly clean operation. Very effective.
Pretty expensive purchase for a DIY'er unless he has a lot of clog issues.
I use my Ridgid 1/4" for most clogs.
If I come across a clog in a long horizontal run..... especially in a bathroom where hair is involved.... I'll switch to 3/8" snake with a larger head.
The inexpensive hand crank 25' snakes work quite well on the size piping for sinks. Your friend's power auger is more appropriate for larger lines like the 3" or 4" main drain lines.
I don't know why my friend bought it.
Ok, so I will buy that Ridgid 25ft.
How often should I use it? Once a month, once every 6months, a year?
How do I know if it is not enough?
Is it just for sinks in kitchen and bathroom? Can I use it for tubs and showers and toilet??
A lot depends on how you treat your plumbing. Many people never clod drains so that's one end of the spectrum. At the other end you can clog the drains every few months by pouring grease & oil down the drain. Don't forget, clogs are created from the things you put down the drain.
The snake can be used on almost any drain line. Since it's a small tool it's most affective on smaller pipes like sink drains.
Ok, I will buy this Ridget snake PJ recommended.
I have 2 more sinks in bathrooms where water moves down slow. So I have something to try this toy on.
When will I have to buy something bigger?
What would it be?
You'll have to take the traps apart. There will be a 90 or a tee in the wall that you'll have to navigate thru to get to the drain line. The fitting just inside the wall is the most common clog point. The next place is where that drain line tees into the main stack if there is a 90 in the wall behind the sink.
In order to get the snake to into the drain and around fittings.... you turn the drum clockwise and the auger works around/thru the fittings. If you had just pushed a snake in it would bind at the fittings.
The next size snake up is a 3/8" and typically 50' long. It has a bigger head for more cleaning. It doesn't fit as well around 1-1/2" fittings. It's tight. The 50' snake is a raw snake.... no drum. Comes with a handle for turning the snake into the drain but you have 50' of snake flopping all over the place. Can make a real mess. Easier to use with two people.
The Ridgid snake contain the snake in the drum so it's not flopping all over the place.
I had a job at a friends. Two bathroom sinks very slow. They were teed in the wall. Down to the floor. Across the floor approx 10' where it joined the shower stall drain line. The horizontal line in the floor was packed with hair that the Ridgid kept passing thru. It would grab the hair but not enough to bring the hair back out the wall. I was going to get the 3/8" snake but I ended up pushing the hair into the drain tee clogging the shower stall. So I had to snake the shower drain too. Finally got it all cleared. The 3/8" would have pulled the hair out.
You've got a friend with a power 3/8" snake. No need to buy one.... just borrow it.
Yeah, my friend doesn't borrow his toys. I will go to HD this week and get your toy for now. We'll see what it can do.
Oh, what do you mean by taking traps apart. Can you explain or show some pictures?
Many trap combinations. Some in PVC, ABS or chrome plated brass.
Loosen the trap nuts and remove the lower trap.
Push snake into end of fitting towards the wall.
As the snake goes in.... turn it so it goes around the fittings.
Since the drain line goes into a 4" deep wall you know it goes into a tee or 90 that the snake must go thru also.
Our problem re-occurred annually around this time of year. No problems yet this year. Knock on wood.
I found the enzyme actually created more clogs down the line during the first few months. I suppose it was dislodging stuff on the pipe walls that would get trapped further down. I’m hopeful I’ve found my long term resolution to a poorly designed drain system.
We have an older Delta (I think) three handle (Hot, Cold & Sprayer) kitchen faucet. If we attempt to use the sprayer there is no flow through it. We can live with that but....after trying it we no longer have either hot or cold water out of the faucet. There is 1/2" copper piping to both the hot and cold side of the faucet with fully open valving. The dish washer supply comes off the hot supply pipe above the hot water isolation valve and is working properly. It seems that the problem is in the "mixing" part of the faucet itself. If I remove the hose supplying the sprayer and plug it at the base of the faucet would that resolve the problem? We're on well water. I went to the basement and shut off the supply to the house. It didn't seem to be venting through the kitchen faucet but would vent through another one. We got about a half of a cup of H2O when I turned the supply back on. Any ideas how I can get this working again? Thanks
Hello Folks,
The previous bathtub drain basket had its inside crossbar broken, so purchased a new 1-3/8 bathtub drain assembly kit. The tub has a drain shoe/waste with measuring 1-3/8 size, thus that kit did fit it for most part.
The drain assembly kit came along with a rubber washer, but there is nowhere to insert the rubber washer. It is my understanding that the rubber washer goes between the but and the plumbing underneath, and not between the basket and the tub (between the basket and tub one should apply a layer of plumber's putty). And once I put the gasket washer between the basket and the tub, the basket's flanges seem to protrude and is not level with the surface of the tub.
Below are some pics depicting the situation:
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/bathtub_drain_assembly_and_shoe_fb11d2be9013afbd2830b80e4b7a60f4511d0ca9.jpg[/img]
[i]Drain Assembly[/i]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/bathtub_drain_shoe_8429d90f3e41b548c74e696ba5144c15d0802a00.jpg[/img]
[i]Bathtub drain shoe[/i]
As seen from the pics above some plumber's putty were added to the drain basket along with the rubber washer under it, but I am not sure whether or not that is the right way or approach. Should the washer be eliminated and only the putty be used instead?
Thanks for any input.