Cracked Corian kitchen sink. Need advice on replacement.
We managed to crack our Corian kichen sink. It's one piece with the counter. I don't believe it can be repaired (epoxied).
We dislike the current kitchen and have plans to redo it but I need a short term inexpensive solution (and the current 5g bucket underneath doesn't meet that criteria).
I have 2 routers so I can cut the Corian, I realize I'll need a specialized bit.
Current Corian sink interior dimensions (where it transitions from granite to white in attached photo) is 21" x 15 3/4".
Counter depth is 25-1/4"
Cabinet width is the issue, only 23"
Sink Dimensions: 25" x 22" x 8-1/16"
Bowl 1 Dimensions: 21" x 15-3/4" x 8"
But looking at the installation PDF the minimum cabinet width is 30". I contacted Elkay and they don't recommend installation with silicone only i.e without the under clamps (which I believe is where the 30" comes from).
Elkay suggested: https://www.elkay.com/products/details/dxuh2115 which confused me. The bowl size matches but again they recommend a 27" minimum cabinet width and at 23-1/2" I suspect it's too large to fit the 23" cabinet. Plus I have no idea how I'd secure it.
I don't really want to go to a smaller sink for practicality reasons.
Corian is just a composite material, if your looking for very short term I'd grind a groove in the crack and fill with epoxy but the surfaces have to be clean and dry.
Corian is just a composite material, if your looking for very short term I'd grind a groove in the crack and fill with epoxy but the surfaces have to be clean and dry.
1. Everything I'd read was that epoxy didn't work. I've seen a couple of forum threads where it was tried and didn't hold.
2. There are two cracks. Both originating from the drain, one full way across the bottom and part way up the side. The other is most of the way along the bottom.
3. Short term is a year or so. I wasn't sufficiently precise. Sorry.
You might consider a top mount sink. I think it would be easier to fit one in and you don't have to worry about having room underneath for clips. You could even cut away part of the top edge of the cabinet sides if you need a little more room. You'd have to modify the corian opening and probably reset the faucet, but it may be your best option.
Another thought...when big farmhouse sinks are installed, you have to build supporting structure under the sink (usually a simple 2x4 frame on each side. If you find a sink that fits but don't have a way or room to fasten it to the the counter top, you could support it from the bottom as is done for the farmhouse sinks. This would be easiest if the sink was fairly flat on the bottom.
You might consider a top mount sink. I think it would be easier to fit one in and you don't have to worry about having room underneath for clips.
The first link in my original post is a top mount sink. Dayton Stainless Steel 25" x 22" x 8-1/16"
The issue is that, according to the installation instructions, it is supposed to be clamped to the counter in addition to being siliconed down. Thus is requires, by the book, a 30" wide cabinet.
But there is no room for the clamps in my 23" wide cabinet.
I suspect you're right about the legal/liability thing...I mean, where's the sink going to go? The other possible issue is warping of the sink rim over time if it's not secured from underneath. And sometimes they are not all that flat to start with out of the box.
Since that sink will overlap the adjacent cabinet(s), would it be possible to use a hole saw to remove enough of the adjacent cabinet(s) to install the clips? They are not very big and you can probably get by with 1 or 2 on each short edge. Then put the bulk of them on the long sides. If that's not feasible, then I would just live with putting the clips along the long sides.
One last thought, if you don't want to cut a big hole in the adjacent cabinets to access the clips. You might be able to find a bolt that has the right size head to slip into the channel where the clips normally attach. Then you could get by with just drilling a couple of small holes in the adjacent cabinet for the bolts to stick through and then spin on nuts and washers...
So the bowl is the same size as our current Corian sink (21" x 15-3/4") BUT it you look at the attached pictures you can see the u-channel that the clamps mount to.
The actual cut out dimensions are 24-3/8" x 21-3/8" (sink external dimensions are 25x22) so the cut out is almost the size of the sink.
My cabinet is only 23" wide. I can cut out 24-3/8 ok, the opening would overhang the adjacent cabinets while the bowl would still fit into the 23" width but I checked and I don't have good access from the neighboring cabinets to access the channels. At least not without performing surgery on the cabinet walls.
It looks like the channels are tack welded on. Maybe they could be removed but there also looks like there is a lip so I'm not sure if silicone alone would work?
Smaller sink is an option but I'm not finding much. I'm all into creatively modifying the sink if I can think of a way.
Hello. Please see this short video. The water from my bathtub faucet is running feebly/slowly. Also, the water doesn't get hot when I take a shower. What is causing this? I can post more videos/pictures if you need them. Thank you!!!
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obtDk2uSvr0[/url]
I am remodeling my bathroom. I don't have a lot of room and I have to use a pedestal sink to save room. I really like the waterfall faucets, but will those splash to much on that type of sink?