I'm remodeling a bathroom and bought a floating vanity. Long story short, the drain pipe coming out of the wall is too low. I can open the wall and add the 3-4" I need. My brother suggested I turn the J coming out of the wall 90 degrees and then add another piece so the actual p-trap was in the usual direction. Is this workable and to code?
If I'm not being clear, the J pipe attaching to the pipe coming out of the wall would be parallel to the ground and then have an additional pipe that connects to the actual trap.
I wouldn't kludge it. Traps depend on venting to work, and only the bottom trap would be vented. It may work, it may not, but at best it's a kludge. Either open the wall and move the trap adapter (sheetrock is easy to fix) or use a long tailpiece from the sink Or an extension tailpiece. The tailpiece can be up to 24 inches long total.
The bottom of the trap is at the bottom floor of the vanity forcing the vanity height to be too low. I cannot raise the vanity without modifying the plumbing or cutting a whole in the floor of the vanity. The latter is not really possible because there is a drawer.
I'm just going to raise the plumbing. It should be a <30 minute job. It's not a big deal, but my pvc cleaner and glue are probably dried out as I haven't used them for a long time and so I need to figure out what I need and hopefully get it in one trip to the store.
Next question. I need the drain pipe coming out of the wall 6 inches higher. Where do I remove piping to do that? Do I have to go all the way back to the 4" trunk and cut in there or is there an easier way?
Unfortunately the only correct way to move that pipe up is to move it up where it joins to the vertical drain/vent.
By using any type of vertical adjustment (in or out of the wall), you're violating plumbing code by dropping the drain before the vent.
It wouldn't be too big an issue to cut the 1.5" vertical PVC and put it back together using either a no-hub coupling or PVC repair coupling. But the copper supply pipes there do make it more complicated. You might have to raise the supply pipes too.
But I don't see any other code-compliant way to make the change.
Thanks. Will it work using the existing hub would that cause water to siphon out of the trap? The copper in the way is really the issue. I'd rather not fool with that. If I make the change and move the hub up it would it be to code due to the height coming out of the wall?
I’ve had some black mold on the caulk both around my tub and in a small shelf on the shower wall. I got to removing and see that the contractor who did this 3-4 years ago caulked over the grout. I’m going to caulk over the grout along the tub but the shelf was only partially caulked. It doesn’t seem the caulk was needed on the shelf, but I’m not certain. Should I caulk over all grout on the shelf as well as the tub? What is the correct way of doing this?
See the images. I’ve removed old caulk that was along the back bottom wall as well as the bottom sides and half the front bottom. Caulk is down each wall but not horizontal between the tiles. It sure what is needed here. Thanks for any advice.
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Hello All,
I replaced kitchen sink faucet with Delta Faucet 9113T-DST.
Had low flow cold side.
Swapped hot and cold lines at check valves, only.
I left check valves on shut off valves.
The low flow swapped cold to hot.
I did the "DST reverse flush"...Shut off cold, disconnected cold line at check valve, put cold line in bucket, turned faucet to warm and let warm water reverse flow out of cold line into bucket.
Replaced cartridge, no change to cold side low flow.
As it is a Touch Activated faucet, is there a valve between cartridge and cold line that could have something in it.
Can I feed fishing line/string trimmer line from cartridge side through to cold water line?
How do I resolve this?
Thanks.
02-12-23, 07:39 PM
