I have to remove a bathroom vanity and sink to put a new floor in my upstairs bathoom. A video showed a guy removing the water supply valves to the sink by of course turning off the water before doing so. Any work I have ever had to do with this sink was of such short duration, it was just easier to shut off the whole house valve in the basement. I don't want to shut everything off this time. These under the sink valves have not had to budge for 30 years, and they are not moving easily now. The video showed the guy taking off the oval shaped hand valve, and loosening a big nut behind it and then turning another nut with a wrench to turn the valve to close it and or open it. I was thinking of trying that, and soaking it in PB Blaster too. Any red flags out there from you guys? (I WILL have the main shut off turned off too lol)

 

Don't expect valves that haven't moved for 30 years to work. If you can close them they are likely to leak.

You can try loosening the packing nut like you mention (you don't have to remove the knob, just loosen the nut). That will allow the valve to turn more easily but it does not help is closing without leaking. If the valve is leaking past the valve stem tightening the packing nut can sometimes fix it. I've never seen a benefit to loosening the nut.

I've never had the patience to wait long enough for sprays to get a valve working again. There is no harm in trying though. Quite often it is the main sealing part of the valve that is gunked in place with mineral deposits and not the valve stem. That means that sprays on the outside can't reach the deposits freezing the valve in place.

I would plan on replacing the shutoff valves. You will have to turn the water off. Then remove or cut off the old valves. Then you can install temporary caps or new valves so you can turn the water back on to the house.

In the future do not open the shutoff valves all the way. After years of sitting the only way the valve can move is in one direction. If you leave the valve mostly open you can then turn the valve back and forth to help break the mineral deposits free that have frozen it in place.

 

Good info from Dane.

I would not count on the valves sealing completely.
Plenty of internal crud at 30 years.
Post a pic of what you have there. You can send it to my email and I'll post it for you.

 

I still have your email Pete but I am camera challenged at the moment. I went upstairs with a flashlight and got a closer look, These look like compression fitting mounted valves. It looks like I am buying a puller and a couple of new ones to get this vanity moved..

 

It appears that different companies make caps for valve outlets. I can cap them off for now, remove the vanity and deal with the compression fittings when the vanity goes back into the bathroom.

 

The valves I have are made with threaded outlet nipples that are 5/8" OD measured with a caliper. The hardware stores around here are clueless unless I bring in a valve, which I cannot do right now It appears that valves this size aren't made for my generation of houses? Who makes a pipe end cap that will fit these old valves?

 

Is your pipping copper? If so use Shark Bite valves. Quick and easy. As long as you have enough pipe sticking out of the wall.

 

I was just hoping to be able to close up the valves I have for now to get the vanity off the floor. I have heard the Shark bite valves would be the way to go, and I may have to just to get past the vanity issue.

 

Between the valves and the sink are typically 3/8" water lines.
Get a pair of 3/8" compression caps......... 3/8" compression caps.

One problem with replacing compression valves is that the crimp ring will be crimped on the copper pipe. You may get lucky and just change them with 1/2" compression x 3/8" compression 1/4 turn ball valves. Not all valves use the same thread in the nut on the 1/2" pipe side. Otherwise... you will need to carefully cut that ring off without damaging the pipe underneath of it.

 

When I get to the point of actually replacing the valves, I saw a video where a guy had a special tool (like a gear puller) that pulls the nut AND the compression ring off of the supply pipe. Not my problem right now, I just need to get the vanity out of the room lol

 

Well, the Force is still with me to a point. The PB Blaster freed up the valve stems and allowed me to close both valves (and open them) until the hot water valve closed and didn't open again. I can at least remove the vanity now without causing a flood. Don't know but would assume that the aforementioned gunk that probably still exists inside the valve is jamming things up. Plenty of copper intake line to install new Shark bites at my convenience. Not sure yet if they left enough clearance for the valves to pass thru the back of the vanity without surgery, Would think even the builders would not have wanted to install the valves (in such a tight place) AFTER the vanity was put in, but I will find out tomorrow. Thanks from an OLD Veteran for all the replies !

 

I mentioned 3/8" compression caps. You can still use them.

 

Yes Pete, I ordered a couple them from Home Depot a few days ago, and will have them soon. I will definitely use those as back up. I saw a guy on Utube replace a set of the original compression fit multi turn valves (like I have) with a set of quarter turn ball valves. He used the original compression collar and nut, and bolted them to a quarter turn ball valve with a 3/8" outlet to go to the sink valves. I would like to do the same thing if I can get all the measurements right for the swap.

 

It's strictly by trial and error. You can spec what you want but the nut thread on the 1/2" compression side is not universal. You may be lucky to find a valve that use the same nut thread. You may have to try several brands.

This is what you want to end up with.
The 3/8" port is universal. Your 3/8" hose will attach there no problem.
The 1/2" thread on a valve is not universal.
The universal part is that it is 1/2" compression for 1/2" copper.
You may need to buy several different valves to find one that uses the old nut thread.

 

10-4 on the non universality of the valve on the inlet side. I have been catching breaks all along, so lets keep the Karma going! I have to remove the vanity top, and was dreading having to destroy it with a chisel, but it was only fastened with 4 philips head screws from the underside which zipped right out with my Milwaukee drill. I have a really tight plastic nut holding the sink drain pipe into the back of the vanitiy and to the house drain pipe. Hoping that I can get that retaining nut to break loose without bending anything. Thanks for the heads up on the valves!

 

Pete, if I get Shark Bite fittings to add new valves, does the compression ring HAVE to be removed from the copper pipe before install?