Installing Self Stick Vinyl over concrete?


  #1  
Old 10-17-03, 12:22 PM
moodyblues100
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Installing Self Stick Vinyl over concrete?

I plan to install self stick viny tile on a basement floor. I do not believe I have a moisture problem, but I plan to tape a 2 ft square plastic down to check. If the floor is clean , dry and even is there any other prep that would be necessary. I have read something about a primer that can be used on concrete. Is this a necessary step?

Thanks,
Jack
 
  #2  
Old 10-17-03, 03:19 PM
D
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Primer won't be necessary, but you will want to back up the glue with some clear spread adhesive since self stick tile don't stick that well.
 
  #3  
Old 10-17-03, 04:12 PM
moodyblues100
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Originally posted by Daniel Wachtel
Primer won't be necessary, but you will want to back up the glue with some clear spread adhesive since self stick tile don't stick that well.
Could you be a little more specific about the type of adhesive you are referring to. I have used some biege adhesive before that I spread with a notched trowel. Is this 'clear' adhesive something different? Is there a particular brand you would recomend.

Thanks for the quick response,
Jack
 
  #4  
Old 10-19-03, 07:43 PM
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Henrys 430 Clear Spread Adhesive.

Since this is a peel & stick tile and not a dry back, use a paint roller to apply the adhesive. If it were dry back tile, then the recommended 1/16" x 1/16" trowel should be used.
 
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Old 10-20-03, 05:54 PM
D
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It is an Armstrong product called Clear Spread Tile Adhesive.It is yellow in appearance and it dries clear when it's ready to have the tile set in it.
 
  #6  
Old 10-21-03, 03:31 AM
moodyblues100
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Thanks for the input. Looks like I've got my next project all lined up.
Jack
 
  #7  
Old 11-01-03, 04:15 PM
moodyblues100
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The past couple of weeks we have been removing the old tile. It was in the house when we bought it 20 + years ago. Some of the tile had come up and it appeared to be self stick. As we get deeper into the project it appears that some type of additional adhesive has been used. I have to scrape the tile off with a putty knife and hammer. Some of the carmel colored adhesive is still on the floor.
What would be needed to remove the excess?
How much of it needs to be removed?
Is the Armstrong or Henry's Adhesive still adequate.
Thanks for all the input, Jack
 
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Old 11-02-03, 04:09 PM
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Either one will work fine for this application. Use a 4" wallpaper scraper to remove the exisitng adhesive from the floor. Try to stay away from using any solvents as the solvent residue can cause bonding issues with the new floor.
 
  #9  
Old 11-03-03, 03:26 AM
moodyblues100
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I have been told that if I use an adhesive with self stick tile that it will void any warrenty that comes with the tile. My wife insists on using the recomended primer and just apply the tile directly. Could you give me the downside of this course of action.
 
  #10  
Old 11-03-03, 08:03 AM
rgillespie
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If you want the honest truth, there is no such thing as a good quality self stick tile. They don't wear very well and will almost always end up shifting and/or gapping on you not far down the road.

Your best bet though is to use the clear thin spread adhesive. (be sure to let it dry completely) Henry's makes a good one that you can get at Home Depot.

Self stick tiles are one of the most common things asked about in this forum. The most common answer by those of us who install floor coverings is that they are worthless.... just in case you haven't already bought them.

Robert
 
  #11  
Old 11-13-03, 12:58 AM
Geo
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Installing self-stick vinyl tile

In case you have not already done your tile floor; or for anyone later:

Definitely you must let adhesive dry several hours --- 8 hrs or so --- so that the tiles don't slew out of place. Plus, it is easier to work to --- and what seems dry will soon grab the tile.

I haven't seen Armstrong brand adhesive lately. Unless you are applying over existing tile, the self-stick is not substantial by itself.

I have found Henry adhesive from Home Depot works OK --- I applied a thin coat with a 4" paint brush.

Note: there are arrows on back of tiles --- to keep pattern uniform, going same direction.

Tip: if a you see that a couple of tile squares back, some how mysteriously has a gap --- with gripy type shoe soles you can push constant leaning pressure and gradually close up the gap. It takes patients, but you will be glad to not have to look at a less than close joint (and lots easier than lifting to reset).

If you do ever need to lift a square --- ten minutes or ten years later --- use a heat gun or hair dryer (but don't over-heat what stays or gets re-used).

The tip I really wanted to pass on is this: the slightest little piece of debris can be like a boulder when it gets under the tile. You can sweep, vacuum, sweep and vacuum and still discover some small debris was left and gets under the tile ---- after sweeping and vacuuming good, change the vacuum hose to blow and start in furtherest corner and progressively blow toward the exit (next room) It is the only way I have found to avoid surprises (boulders) under the tile.

When making trim fitting, be aware that trim slivers/crumbs of tile can fall into work area and be like boulders under tile.

I AGREE, vinyl tile has draw-backs --- sometimes slews out of place, also shrinks to leave gaps between squares.

But good grade vinyl tiles have nice looking, durable, easy-care surface --- and vinyl squares can be repaired/replaced (stow away several squares for repairs).

HOWEVER, in-laid vinyl requires much skill to fit around object edges --- even good fitted wall edges need shoe moulding or will later curl up.

In-laid vinyl typically has a soft backing and is too easily torn when moving appliances/furniture --- and patching it looks like crap. I have seen too many cases.
 
 

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