linoleum underlayment proces
#1
linoleum underlayment proces
I'm going to attempt to prepare the subfloor of a small master bathroom/dressing area for vinyl linoleum. The dressing area had carpet which I pulled up/removed tack strips, trim, etc. The bathroom area has linoleum which I believe I'm going to have to pull up, underlayment and all...down to the plywood subfloor (since it isn't peeling off easily). My questions:
1. What type of underlayment is required for new vinyl linoleum? Typical price?
2. Do I have to screw down the underlayment, or will brads/staples work?
3. Do I have to buy a filler for the screw/nail heads, and seams? If so, what is a good brand?
4. Any good tips you guys might have that would help this process??
Thanks a ton!!
1. What type of underlayment is required for new vinyl linoleum? Typical price?
2. Do I have to screw down the underlayment, or will brads/staples work?
3. Do I have to buy a filler for the screw/nail heads, and seams? If so, what is a good brand?
4. Any good tips you guys might have that would help this process??
Thanks a ton!!
#2
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1) I have been using a product called ultraply. Any plywood used for underlayment should have underlayment grade stamped on it somewhere. Don't take someones word for it unless it is stamped on the board. Luan is not an approved underlayment. About $18.00/ 4x8 sheet.
2) Narrow crown staples work great. Do not use screws. Staple every 2" on the seams and every 4" on the field. Try not to shoot into the floor joists or you will see staples trying to pop up.
3)Skincoat the seams with Ardex SD-F or a similar portland based patching compound. Do not use a gypsum base floor patch.
4) Have an extra set of hands around. If there are inside corners (like around cabinets that stick out into the room) use duct tape at an angle to the corner to prevent the vinyl from tearing.
\L the tape being the \ and the corner being the L
Use a limoleum roller to make sure there is plenty glue transfer and no trapped air bubbles. Roll from the center out, back and forth one direction then roll at a 90 degree angle to the first direction you rolled.
Post back with any more Q's and to let us know how it went.
2) Narrow crown staples work great. Do not use screws. Staple every 2" on the seams and every 4" on the field. Try not to shoot into the floor joists or you will see staples trying to pop up.
3)Skincoat the seams with Ardex SD-F or a similar portland based patching compound. Do not use a gypsum base floor patch.
4) Have an extra set of hands around. If there are inside corners (like around cabinets that stick out into the room) use duct tape at an angle to the corner to prevent the vinyl from tearing.
\L the tape being the \ and the corner being the L
Use a limoleum roller to make sure there is plenty glue transfer and no trapped air bubbles. Roll from the center out, back and forth one direction then roll at a 90 degree angle to the first direction you rolled.
Post back with any more Q's and to let us know how it went.