self-stick vinyl floor tiles


  #1  
Old 02-09-05, 07:04 AM
terry lynn
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self-stick vinyl floor tiles

This is my very first posting on any website, so here it goes! I would like to know if anyone knows where I can get 12x12 (or whatever size) self-stick vinly tiles in colors, i.e., red, yellow, blue? Black and white are easy to find but not colors. I do see them used in magazine spreads, but I don't have luck in locating them myself. Thank you.
 
  #2  
Old 02-09-05, 03:22 PM
D
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The options are far greaterif you steer away from self stick tiles and look into commercial tile.
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-05, 06:05 AM
terry lynn
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self-stick floor tiles

Daniel -

Thank you for your response. I think I'll go that way. The colors in the commercial tile are nice! It will be more work, but it will be what I'm after.

Terry
 
  #4  
Old 06-21-07, 09:49 AM
P
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Smile prep over linoleum for self stick vinyl floor tiles

I want to install self-stick vinyl tiles to my exsisting vinyl floor. Do I have to remove the old floor? How do I prepare it to accept the new tile?
 
  #5  
Old 06-21-07, 08:32 PM
S
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If the existing vinyl is well adhered and in reasonable condition you can put the vinyl tiles over it. I just finished prepping a vinyl floor to install another sheet of vinyl over it and took lots of pictures for just such a question.

1) Make sure the existing floor is well adhered, clean, and free of any contaminants such as wax. Sweep the whole thing with a fox tail. This will allow you to examine every square inch of the floor. Mark any bad spots you find with a carpenter's pencil. This floor had some seams coming apart and a few small tears.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep001.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep002.jpg

2) Cut out the bad spots in preparation for patching. When using the knife, hold your hand at an angle to produce a tapered edge,
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep004.jpg
rather than straight up.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep003.jpg
A tapered edge will allow you to tell if the vinyl you're leaving is well adhered or not. If it isn't, keep carving until you get to vinyl that is well adhered. Once the cut is made, remove the bad material by scraping from the edge into the center of the area being removed. You don't want to mess up the edge of the vinyl you're leaving. A bad spot in a seam that has been removed will look something like this.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep005.jpg
Cut any small tears out with a circular cut, again holding your hand at an angle in order to get that tapered edge.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep008.jpg

3) Once all the loose or damaged spots have been removed, fill in or patch them with a good floor patch. I like Ardex Feather Finish the best, but Mapei Plani-patch also works well.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep012.jpg
In this next shot, note how the pattern was somewhat filled in during the patching process.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep010.jpg
This pattern is called the embossing and is stamped in during manufacture. In order to keep it from telegraphing up through your new floor, it must be filled in or "leveled". There is a leveling compound made for this purpose called embossing leveler. I'm not sure a big box would carry it, but a well stocked flooring store should either carry it or be able to get it for you. It is made to be spread very thinly and doesn't make a good floor patch material. That's why you must patch all the bad spots first, then apply the leveler. Spread the leveler as carefully as you can and pay close attention to where you've been while you can still reach it without getting on the fresh leveler. This stuff dries pretty hard and doesn't sand well so you want it as smooth as possible the first time. If you discover you've left ridges, clumps, or dribbles after you're too far away to fix them, let them go until the material has turned mostly a light gray color. You can get on it carefully at this point. Use the edge of your trowel to carve them flat before they set completely. Don't do this until the floor is set up enough to be able to carve without disturbing wet material. The leveled floor will look like this. Also, take note of the ridge I left. I carved it flat later on.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep013.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q72/Smokey49/vinylprep014.jpg

4) Go back over the floor, after it has dried thoroughly and you've carved any blemishes flat, with your foxtail. Again, this allows you to examine every part of the floor and deal with anything you find. Once you're satisfied it's clean, completely patched, and the embossing has been eliminated, you're ready to install the new floor. I hope this helps and isn't too long.
 
 

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