Preparing to put LVP in a bathroom


  #1  
Old 06-08-20, 07:49 PM
richpodraza's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 92
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Preparing to put LVP in a bathroom

I want to remodel our kids' upstairs bathroom and want to remove the existing sheet vinyl and put in LVP. Part of the reason I want to remove the existing sheet vinyl is we also want to replace the vanity and I think the existing sheet vinyl was cut to fit around the vanity. Also there are at least 2 layers of vinyl flooring, I'd like to take it down to the plywood and install on top of that.

I'm a bit concerned about what I will find once I start tearing out the vinyl sheet. There is at least one area where I can feel there is no 2nd layer underneath the top layer. It's like a perfectly linear dip in the floor of just a few millimeters, right behind the toilet. Not sure why they would have done that.

I also am just generally concerned about my plywood subfloor being flat/smooth enough, because it seems like there is no way to tell without pulling up the vinyl. FWIW the floor feels flat to me, excepts that area behind the toilet, and other areas near the edges.

I've bought a pretty thick (8mm) plank, with some built in underlayment. How much will that help if my floor isn't perfectly flat?
 
  #2  
Old 06-08-20, 08:40 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 29,626
Received 1,640 Likes on 1,468 Posts
Your instructions will have specifications for how flat the subfloor must be. Either way, first thing you should do is pull up the toilet and get rid of the vanity. Put the toilet on a furniture dolly so that you can roll it out of the way... it will have to be gone for a few days while you do the work. Once they are gone, you will no doubt be able to see all the layers you have. They should all go away, down to the original subfloor. Most often, vinyl will be laid on top of 1/4" underlayment. So your best bet will be to get rid of that too. Getting down to the original subfloor is always good, so that you can see it's TRUE condition. You can also fix any squeaks at this time.

Once you have exposed the original subfloor, you can inspect for any water damage or soft spots around the toilet, and repair them. Check with a long straightedge how flat the floor is, according to the mfg's instructions. LVP cannot tolerate humps or dips, so you must level the floor as needed so that it is FLAT... but not necessarily level (meaning, level is preferable but not always possible). That means checking it with a long straightedge, such as a 78" level... sliding it around and checking the floor in every direction.

If you find low spots, they can be floated with leveling compound, and "usually" it will be best to cover the floor with a new layer of underlayment so that the floor is clean, flat and smooth. (Your underlayment on your floor does not necessarily take the place of this). Underlayment NEVER gets glued down... it is just a sacrificial layer meant to provide a nice clean flat smooth surface for your finished floor.

Once that is down, you will be ready for flooring. The final height to your toilet flange must be taken into consideration too. You don't want it to be too high or too low. You may need to undercut any casing or door jambs so that your new flooring can slip under. After the floor is finished, you will need to put base shoe down to complete the installation.
 
  #3  
Old 06-09-20, 11:03 AM
sam floor's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: floor installer
Posts: 1,087
Received 29 Likes on 24 Posts
Use 1/4" underlayment plywood and fasten it either with an air stapler or hand nail with underlayment nails. It should be fastened every 4-6" in the field and every 4" on the edges. If you nail, set the nails slightly below the surface.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: