Advice for leveling floor for new install
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Advice for leveling floor for new install
Hi folks,
Just looking for some ideas here. Our family room has old carpeting so we ripped it all out. What we found underneath were 9”x9” linoleum tiles with black tar-like glue stuff underneath. After some examination and research, we’re assuming they’re asbestos. We didn’t get them tested, were just going to install new engineered click bamboo flooring over them. The underlayment isn’t attached to the bamboo, it’s separate.
The problem we’re running into is that most of the floor is level except where the last 4 rows of flooring will lay. It’s right where there’s a threshold into the kitchen. Smack in the middle of the threshold, the flooring “crowns” (it’s higher) in the middle and drops down on each side. We tried doubling and even tripling up on the underlayment to level it out, but it’s not really working and the flooring is acting like a see-saw still. We’ve been reading about self-leveling compound, but the reviews seem to be mixed regarding using it on linoleum. Some say it’s ok, and others say no.
I’m curious what others think or if there are any alternatives.
Thanks!
Just looking for some ideas here. Our family room has old carpeting so we ripped it all out. What we found underneath were 9”x9” linoleum tiles with black tar-like glue stuff underneath. After some examination and research, we’re assuming they’re asbestos. We didn’t get them tested, were just going to install new engineered click bamboo flooring over them. The underlayment isn’t attached to the bamboo, it’s separate.
The problem we’re running into is that most of the floor is level except where the last 4 rows of flooring will lay. It’s right where there’s a threshold into the kitchen. Smack in the middle of the threshold, the flooring “crowns” (it’s higher) in the middle and drops down on each side. We tried doubling and even tripling up on the underlayment to level it out, but it’s not really working and the flooring is acting like a see-saw still. We’ve been reading about self-leveling compound, but the reviews seem to be mixed regarding using it on linoleum. Some say it’s ok, and others say no.
I’m curious what others think or if there are any alternatives.
Thanks!
#2
Self leveling is a cement product, if it does not have a solid foundation then it will eventually break up.
So how big of an area, how much is it off by, and what is the manufactures max level requirements.
So how big of an area, how much is it off by, and what is the manufactures max level requirements.
Drangd
voted this post useful.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply!
The entire width of the “unlevel” space is about 2 feet, and the length is about 5-6 feet.
As you look at the pictures below, the numbered portion of the pictures is the same spot in each picture. So in other words, #1 is the same place in all three pictures. The #1 spot is the highest part, or the “crown”, of the floor. As you move left from #1, to #2, to #3, it goes from a 0” gap, to about 0.5” gap at #2, to about 0.75” at #3. If you go to the right (from #1 to #5), the gap is similar but not quite as drastic. I have to double check with the manufacturer’s instructions say and get back to you.
The entire width of the “unlevel” space is about 2 feet, and the length is about 5-6 feet.
As you look at the pictures below, the numbered portion of the pictures is the same spot in each picture. So in other words, #1 is the same place in all three pictures. The #1 spot is the highest part, or the “crown”, of the floor. As you move left from #1, to #2, to #3, it goes from a 0” gap, to about 0.5” gap at #2, to about 0.75” at #3. If you go to the right (from #1 to #5), the gap is similar but not quite as drastic. I have to double check with the manufacturer’s instructions say and get back to you.
#4
So for someone who has installed many hardwood floors that situation would be addressed with felt paper and shingles to level up floor!!
#5
You are confusing level and flat.Floors don't need to be level for this flooring but flat. You can fill the low spots with either shake shingles, tar paper or regular shingles. None of them will deteriorate over time. Self-leveling patch might.
#6
Step one in your flooring instructions was probably to check the flatness of the floor. It probably said it needed to be within 1/8" in 6 feet or something to that effect. Checking the floor when you get to your last 4 rows is... well, kind of a little late now.
If you have a crown on the subfloor, (at spot #1) that could have been planed down with a power planer, reducing the amount you need to shim TREMENDOUSLY.
And if any of the rest of the floor exceeded the mfg's tolerances for flatness, its probably going to shorten the lifespan of the floor.
If you have a crown on the subfloor, (at spot #1) that could have been planed down with a power planer, reducing the amount you need to shim TREMENDOUSLY.
And if any of the rest of the floor exceeded the mfg's tolerances for flatness, its probably going to shorten the lifespan of the floor.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies guys.
1. Are shake shingles flat, or are they wedge shaped?
2. What’s the purpose of the paper that you guys mentioned? Do you just mean to stack it up to the point where it would make things flat?
3. Would you recommend putting the underlayment down first and put the stuff on top of it? Or put the stuff down first, and then the underlayment, and then the bamboo floor?
Thanks xsleeper. Like I mentioned in the original post though, the flooring is asbestos. So we couldn’t have been able to remove it or plane it down I don’t think.
1. Are shake shingles flat, or are they wedge shaped?
2. What’s the purpose of the paper that you guys mentioned? Do you just mean to stack it up to the point where it would make things flat?
3. Would you recommend putting the underlayment down first and put the stuff on top of it? Or put the stuff down first, and then the underlayment, and then the bamboo floor?
Thanks xsleeper. Like I mentioned in the original post though, the flooring is asbestos. So we couldn’t have been able to remove it or plane it down I don’t think.
#8
I read that but somehow it didnt register, sorry.
Cedar shingles are tapered, so that along with shingles and tar paper may be your only solution. Even if you had access to the floor below you can't do much jacking with that tile floor in the background.
I still think I'd be tempted to remove the tile from the high area. Safely of course.
Cedar shingles are tapered, so that along with shingles and tar paper may be your only solution. Even if you had access to the floor below you can't do much jacking with that tile floor in the background.
I still think I'd be tempted to remove the tile from the high area. Safely of course.