mosaic tiling a bar top.. help?!?!?!?

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  #1  
Old 01-15-03, 08:24 PM
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mommy60517
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mosaic tiling a bar top.. help?!?!?!?

Hello... I have an old built in bar in my basement. The top looks like something
from the 70's and I'm not too sure of the surface. I bought some cheapo
ceramic tiles at the hardware store and smashed them all up. I have never
done a project like this, so I've done some research on the internet and took
some books out at the library. It seems WAY too easy... almost so easy that
surely I may screw it up somehow!

Has anyone done this? Any tips or suggestions? It sure looks like a fun,
fairly cheap easy way to brighten up this ugly bar top surface.

Thanks...
 
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Old 01-16-03, 05:19 PM
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Use the right adhesive and beware of the sharp edges and go for it.
 
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Old 01-17-03, 05:39 AM
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mommy60517
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mosaic tiling

Thanks for your response. We took up the top and it looked like cheap thin
sheet of some kind of plastic on the top. So, we're down to wood now on the
bar top. I bought some mastic and tried to butter some on the bottom of
a tile and let it dry to see if I could lift it off and with a little effort, I could.

So, I'm assuming I'm using the wrong adhesive? Shouldn't it be very
difficult to lift the tile off???

Oh, I do hope this turns out. I've laid some of the smashed tiles out just
to see how it'll look and it looks wonderful!

Thanks .
 
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Old 01-17-03, 09:01 PM
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First install a proper tile underlayment, use a cement board.
Don't use mastic in this application the results won't please you, use a modified thinset mortar.
 
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Old 01-18-03, 06:02 AM
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mommy60517
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Thank You Bud.... We did lay down some cement board over
the wood top. My husband buttered some of the tiles on a sample
piece with the mastic and it's NOT coming up. So, we should use
a thinset?

The floor guy at the hardware store said we should probably think about
covering the mosaic top with a thin sheet of plexiglass? The tiles look
like they could get scratched fairly easy. Couldn't we just slap a coat
of poly on it?

I sure appreciate your suggestions!
 
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Old 01-18-03, 09:10 AM
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Well mastic and moisture really aren't compatible never mind what the package propaganda says. In the case of a countertop you would probably be OK but the use of thinset would be better and would take the "probably" out of the equation.

"Floor Guy at the hardware store" is an oxymoron you know? hehehe!

Now...

[This is the kind of stuff that gets me in trouble all the time so please take this next comment with a grain of salt, OK?]

Plexiglas?????
What the heck is he talking about for God's sake? You don't need to cover ceramic tile with plexiglas...What for?

There I got it out of my system.

I wouldn't "poly" it either. You might seal the grout a few times then leave it alone. It will be fine I'm sure.
 
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Old 01-19-03, 05:56 AM
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mommy60517
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Hi Bud... I love your sense of HUMOR! And sure do appreciate you taking the
time to give me some helpful advice!

We did a test mosaic on a small x-tra piece and boy, it sure is beautiful! We
used cherry, terra cotta, blue, cream, black, plum and a muted green tile colors.
Used a charcol grey colored grout. Pretty!

I think the guy was trying to tell us that it may have "sharp" edges on the counter
and the plexiglass would make it so noone would get "scraped". Hmmmmm.... We
also accidentally scratched one of the tiles that's why we were wondering about
what we could put over it (poly coating) to protect it from scratching. The tiles I
bought to do this are CHEAPO tiles!

I can see how this may become an addiction real fast! Before you know it,
every piece of furniture in my house will be MOSAIC tiles! Ha!

Many thanks for your input!

 
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Old 01-19-03, 09:45 AM
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The glazed tiles shouldn't be too easy to scratch but that's not to say it can't happen.

The sharp edges can be somewhat offset when you grout. If you will allow the grout to stiffen at the time of installation before you clean it with a sponge, the grout will be harder to "work-down" but this is what you want. Thereby it will be harder to clean the grout below the tiles surface. This will result in a flush top (tile surface to grout surface) and the sharp edges will remain buried in the grout just slightly.

It seams such a waste to me to use something as durable as tile is known to be, then cover it with something like poly that will be a maintenance nightmare before too long. I think if you leave it alone you'll be happier in the long run.

Besides you're the one that took a hammer to your tile to begin with, how can a few scratches do anything but enhance it's appearance?

By the way what you are doing is known as "rubble". Last year I installed some "rubble" in a local Holiday Inn lobby and they love it. The desk clerks watched me do it and they at first thought I was crazy. One of them now has it in their home.
 
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Old 01-21-03, 10:09 AM
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mommy60517
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Many thanks for all your tips while I tackle this RUBBLE!

We'll try the grout tip.... on our sample piece, the pieces weren't
that sharp that it would hurt anyone. It is truly pretty!

Many many thanks!

Happy Tiling!

 
  #10  
Old 01-21-03, 10:17 AM
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TileguyTodd
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Did a rubble slate job about 6 months back. About drove me nuts!! Looked great when completed though.You just never ever get enough money for jobs that require tearing your hair out though
 
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Old 01-21-03, 05:36 PM
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Todd,

Here's your next assignment...it's another rubble job.

Do an entry (8' X 10") with only the four corner tiles rubbled. The remaining tiles are to be whole. (20" X 20" by the way).

BUT...
Save all the factory edges of the tiles you break and reassemble the tiles with factory edges in tact all around, and keep the fractures as parallel as possible for consistant grout lines of about 3/16".

Oh...and there is one more requirement.
The space consumed by one rubbled tile cannot consume more space than that of any one full tile.

Dontcha just love it?
 
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