Tile Floor Meeting up to OAK Floor


Old 06-09-03, 02:24 PM
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Tile Floor Meeting up to OAK Floor

I plan on doing some tile work and the tile will be 'butting' up against oak hardwood. The tile might be slightly higher then the OAK because of the buildup of the underlayment. I was thinking of purchasing one of those quarter rounds that you would nail to the underlayment that you would normally use on the wall of an outside corner and have the tile end at that point to give it a clean edge. I believe these quarter rounds are either a hard plastic or metal.

Any recomendations or alternatives? Also, can you find these at a home improvement store?
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Old 06-09-03, 03:08 PM
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when I had this problem, I purchase a 3" oak strip that I polied to the same shade as my wood floor. I then made a gradual slop from the tile to the floor and no one knows it is even there.
Good luck.
Old 06-09-03, 05:34 PM
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Tile needs expansion gaps just like your hardwood does.

If it is " hardwood, it needs " of expansion gap from any fixed object(your ceramic tile)

Ceramic needs " expansion or tile tenting and grout failure are in its future.

The proper method would be a hardwood "T" molding or reducer molding transition(depending on height difference). Leaving the proper expansion underneath the molding.

This little transition, if not done correct, can cause either flooring(tile or hardwood) to fail.
Many DIY don't even think about it till it's too late and start asking questions after the failure.
Your ahead in the ball game so far!
Old 06-19-03, 02:23 PM
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Thanks both to Cridler and Carpets Done Wright.

I have a follow-up question for Mr. Wright.

1 - Where do I find this T molding - home center, lumber yard, flooring store?

2 - Am I right in assuming you set the long part of the"T" in the gap between tile and hardwood?

3 - Would the top or the short "T" rest on the tile and the other short section on the floor? This would make sort of an angle between the two substances.


Jack L.
Old 06-19-03, 05:31 PM
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if the tile is butting up to the length of the wood then the expansion that carpets reffered to is is not needed the wood only expands to the width not the length.If the wood has been down for a while then the expansion is not as critcal as if it were new,you could check the other side of the wood and see if there is room to grow on that side and that should be sufficient.You can put a peice of schluter metal in between the wood and tile and leave a grout joint or a little less in there and fill it grout,they also make different thicknesses of reducers in wood check with you're local flooring supply not the box stores to find what you need or check with a wood shop in you're area ans see what they have available
Old 06-20-03, 05:27 AM
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Originally posted by floorman
[B]if the tile is butting up to the length of the wood then the expansion that carpets reffered to is is not needed the wood only expands to the width not the length.

I beg to differ!!!!!!
We are talking a " solid hardwood here, not a thinner engineered ply hardwood.

If these are not the same height or within an 1/8 - 3/16" instead of a "T" molding transition, you might want a reducer, sometimes called a baby threshold. Sometimes the reducer needs modification to make the height just right.

They have "T" molding at Home Depot and Lowes, but they are short lengths. It won't hurt to look.

A hardwood distributor(not the retailers) will have everything you need.
Old 06-20-03, 09:57 PM
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Transition pieces

Solid 3/4" hardwood T-molds are typically used between two floor coverings of the same height and fill a 3/4" expansion gap. That is the recommended gap between hardwood and its perimeter surfaces by the National Oak Flooring Manufacturer's Assoc. And, the bottom of the "T" on most manufacturer's solid hardwood T-molds is 3/4".

A hardwood flooring reducer makes the transition from 3/4" hardwood to a lower surface floor covering like vinyl.

A Baby Threshold could be used to make the transition from tile to hardwood if the threshold will be abutting the groove side of the hardwood. Typically, the offset under the overlap that would overlap your tile is 9/16" and the bottom that would rest on the lower hardwood floor would be 15/16" to cover a 3/4" or larger gap

Fthe expansion gap.

Quarter Round is typically used to cover the expansion gap between flooring and baseboard.

Schluter makes some great products, but it may be difficult to find a dealer in your area and a dealer rep that fully understands your installation problem.

For aesthetic reasons, it would be best to have a wood transition piece between tile and wood, rather than to introduce a new material.

With a rip saw, hardwood flooring transition pieces can be modified to meet your specifications.
Old 06-21-03, 10:46 AM
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if you try to put a t-mold on an area where there is not only a heighth difference but a 1 1/4" gap as well because that is what you'll have once you allow for the 1/2 "t" that is on the underside of the molding and the 3/4" for expansion, then it will crack without a doubt,not only that but you will never get it tight eneough to stay put.For areas where there is a heighth difference the only option would be a reducer type material where the material is laying flat.Now for the issue of expansion,again hardwood nail down 3/4" plank flooring does not expand length wise it only expands to the width of the material and the 3/4"expansion is total distance on both walls not 3/4" on one walll and 3"4 on another wall you'll never find a base that wide to cover anything,tile wise i'll go along with the 1/4 you'll need that for deflection in the sub-floor which is why i said to put a little distance between the schluter and tile then grout ,the grout will give before any tenting will occur,tenting is a pretty extreme event that happenes ony when a few different errors are done in the process of installation i've never ran across this in the 14 years of doing tile work, have heard of it though
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