Question what my tile man told me
#1
Question what my tile man told me
Just lost confidence in tile man. He told me to have the general contractor DRYWALL the inside of the shower (to be tiled, including shower base) and that he would redgaurd over drywall. I believe that durarock should be used and he should redgaurd over that, and told him that. OK will do, but my confidence is shaken that he wanted just drywall. Am I mistaken?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Dont know why he would say that if the wallboard is not up yet. Redgard over drywall will work, but a cement board wall with vapor barrier behind it would be better. Even with Redgard, if any water found its way to the core of the sheetrock it would start to deteriorate. Sounds funny to me. Question your contractor, maybe both of them are looking to take the easy way out, because cement board is harder to handle and cut than sheetrock.
#3
Thanks to Tileguybob
Originally Posted by Tileguybob
Dont know why he would say that if the wallboard is not up yet. Redgard over drywall will work, but a cement board wall with vapor barrier behind it would be better. Even with Redgard, if any water found its way to the core of the sheetrock it would start to deteriorate. Sounds funny to me. Question your contractor, maybe both of them are looking to take the easy way out, because cement board is harder to handle and cut than sheetrock.
#4
Nancy,
I wouldn't let the so-called tile man back in my house. He's talking about doing tile over sheetrocked walls in a shower!?! The guy is a hack and really if you've got the proper tools cbu is no harder to work with than drywall, just don't cut it inside unless you do it by hand. Saws do tend to spew a ton of dust when cutting cbu.
Get some more quotes for your tile work, surely there must be some compentent tilemen in your area.
I wouldn't let the so-called tile man back in my house. He's talking about doing tile over sheetrocked walls in a shower!?! The guy is a hack and really if you've got the proper tools cbu is no harder to work with than drywall, just don't cut it inside unless you do it by hand. Saws do tend to spew a ton of dust when cutting cbu.
Get some more quotes for your tile work, surely there must be some compentent tilemen in your area.
#5
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Actually, regular sheetrock is acceptable in a shower WHEN you are using Kerdi and Kerdi Band to water proof the area and it is reccomended by schluter over using green board. I wouldn't Redguard over regular sheetrock, in a shower, but, Redguard is approved for use as a shower pan liner and when installed properly, is fully water proof and accepted as a water proofer by the UPC. If this is a mud pan shower and the redguard is installed with the 6" mesh tape over the joints and continued into and as the shower pan liner, it would work, as there would be no way for water to leech into the gypsum and all fastener penetrations would be waterproofed with the layer of Redguard as well. Still, in theory it would work perfectly, but I still would not do it. I would trust the moisture barrier with cement board over the studs without concern. Are you using a preformed pan or is one being built for you. If a coustom pan is being built with a liner and mud bed, we'd like to discuss some proper pan building techniques.
You know, I just asnwered a thread on another board about redguard and was corrected by Dave Gobis, that the tar paper or poly acts as a moisture retarder and theat there is still the concern about fastener penetrations and that Redguard applied over top of the backer waterproofs the installation. I suppose that would include painting the edges by the pan to prevent water from wicking behind it. I can't wait for the new TCA handbook to come out. There should be some very interesting changes.
You know, I just asnwered a thread on another board about redguard and was corrected by Dave Gobis, that the tar paper or poly acts as a moisture retarder and theat there is still the concern about fastener penetrations and that Redguard applied over top of the backer waterproofs the installation. I suppose that would include painting the edges by the pan to prevent water from wicking behind it. I can't wait for the new TCA handbook to come out. There should be some very interesting changes.
#6
As a water proofer, RedGard is applied in 3-4 coats, letting each coat dry and turn red(2-4 hours between coats)
One coat isn't going to do anything but fool you.
It takes 2 coats to be an anti-fracture membrane, but more coats to be a waterproofer.
One coat isn't going to do anything but fool you.
It takes 2 coats to be an anti-fracture membrane, but more coats to be a waterproofer.
#7
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I certainly wasn't endorsing what was being done and I never said a coat of Redguard, I was mearly suggesting that in theory the concept should work if installed properly, and in the case of a Redguard liner for a shower pan would create one fully enclosed and waterproofed enclosure. I have just found out that the new TCA handbook will 60% bigger and I will bet it will have alot to say about surface waterproofing vs. moisture retarders.
#8
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Why use Redguard at all?
With a clear vinyl sheet stapled to the studs, and Permabase cement board [like Durock] over that, and thinset , tile/grout over that, why use a plasticky layer of Redguard under the tile?
Does the Tile stick to it as well as to more porous bumpy cement board?
That's MY concern.
And how much vapor gets through anyway? So what?
Seems like overkill and commercial hype to me.
My 70 year old tub/shower is tile on cement troweled into wire mesh lath. No problems.
I need an answer. The tile man cometh and he wants to paint red stuff.
joew
Does the Tile stick to it as well as to more porous bumpy cement board?
That's MY concern.
And how much vapor gets through anyway? So what?
Seems like overkill and commercial hype to me.
My 70 year old tub/shower is tile on cement troweled into wire mesh lath. No problems.
I need an answer. The tile man cometh and he wants to paint red stuff.
joew
#9
Your tile man is correct and following TCNA standards. Moisture WILL get through grout and tile and the vapor barrier (plastic) is the last line of defense before the wall structure. If you coat the entire area in Redgard, you do not need the plastic vapor barrier.
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