Thinset vs. mastic and grout questions


  #1  
Old 05-13-05, 05:44 AM
brian5
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Thinset vs. mastic and grout questions

I'm getting ready to tile my shower, 30" deep x 5' long, 1/2" concrete board screwed and joints taped, tile is 1/4" thick 2"x2" in 12"x12" mesh grid. I bought thinset to mix up and do the tiling job (used the same for the joints and corners in backerboard). Neighbor was telling me he used premixed mastic-it was recommended by the guy at lowes. Which is better? Convenience of the premixed is not an issue, I have no problem mixing the thinset powder.

While going to pick up my grout at hd, I noticed they carry a line of stain-free grout now. Picture on label shows spilled wine glass and wine not staining the grout. Does this product have any merit? I've already got my color picked out in Polyblend, and I don't want to pony up the extra $$ if it won't make a difference.

And while I'm at it, I'm going to ask: My grout spacing is 1/8". The tile is not a smooth glaze. Will sanded grout be more durable than non-sanded? Plenty of kids and dogs (and adults) will be using this bath over the years.

Sorry for the load of questions in one post, and thanks for the advice.

Brian
 
  #2  
Old 05-13-05, 06:21 AM
T
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Never ever ever use mastic (premixed thinset is sanded mastic, don't let the name fool you )in a wet area. Never use premixed grouts, they are just caulk in a bucket and are very prone to pinholes, excessive shrinking while curing, and a need for a second coat. They are also very dificult to clean off the tile. Now how often do you need to replace grout vs replacing caulking (which is premixed grout) so need I say more about that. Now for the million$$ question. Did you install a 6 mil poly vapor barrier over the studs and seal it to the nailing flange of your tub before the backer got installed? If not, and if you had not yet taped the seams, I'd tell you to to unscrew the backer and install poly. If you did not use poly at this point, given the seams are taped, then use redguard water prrofing membrane which is available in the tile section of HD and roll 2 coats over your walls before setting your tile. Cement boards are not waterproof and need the poly to prevent moisture from getting into your stud cavities, which is why there is the need for topical waterproofing when a moisture retarder is ot used behind it. Get the botom edge of the board and also apply a bead of sealant to prevent wicking up from the bottom of the backer. In a few years, your shower will still be bullet proof and your freind may be plagued with mildew in his grout lines, loose tiles, etc as mastic will reemulsify when exposed to repeated moisture and does not regain its hardness or bonding strength. Given such small tiles, the mastic would wash away even quicker as water will penetrate even sealed grout lines. I have read many complaints about the trafficmaster premixed grout, as well as all premixed grouts in general. I even stopped for a momont and watched a comical tile class at a big box where they used a premixed grout. What junk it was.
 
  #3  
Old 05-13-05, 07:11 AM
brian5
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Redguard

That is what I thought about the premixed, I will stick with my original grout choice (polyblend)

Sorry to say that I did not put plastic behind the durock, and it is already taped. So I will be stopping by hd on my way home today to pick up Redguard. Thanks for the info. Better to find out now than when the tile is done.

Is Redguard hard or messy to put on? How is the odor? And can I put it on today and begin tiling tomorrow?

Thanks!
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-05, 08:33 AM
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You can put the Redgard on with a paint roller..though it is hard on the old arms. It does stink a bit, but dries pretty quickly....you should check what is says on the pail, but I think you can start tiling in 24 hrs.
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-05, 02:43 PM
T
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Wear gloves, I use surgical ones and mask off anywhere you don't want it, cover the tub, it gets all over, but works.
 
 

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