Installing Tiles


  #1  
Old 06-06-05, 02:00 PM
jdtimmer
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Angry Installing Tiles

I have a few questions that I'm going to just group together. I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.
First we hired a handyman in March he started the end of March and worked Faithfully for 6 weeks. On our Pantry this room is 8x11. He's put in the lines for outlets, drywall and tiled all but one wall and never finished the outlets. We have 220 in our house and this room is wide open with live wires. I watched him work at first it was going great. and fast. The last time he was here was May 1st and it took him 2 hrs to put in one outlet and we havent' seen him since. We're paying this guy cash under the table and he's good just slow. But anyway that's a quick background.
We're tired of waiting. He's called and said he's coming and doesn't show. We managed to put the outlets in and have those working properly. Our problem is the wall that he hasn't finished tileing and the floor. How hard is this to do? and if we put the tile floor in how soon can you walk on it? This floor that needs to be done is in the main entry way of the house 10 sq mtrs. All access is thru this area.

I know this doesn't make a lot of sense but I'm open to any help we can get at this point. He's supposed to show up again in 2 weeks but I want the guy fired. My husband said give the guy a chance.

Thanks

jd


Photos of this project are at the end of this photo album.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/denie_.../ph//my_photos
 
  #2  
Old 06-06-05, 03:37 PM
T
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What is your specific question on tiling, yes, if handy you can do it, need alot more info on what it's going over and type of tile.

As for your handyman friend, can't help you there, you get what you pay for.
 
  #3  
Old 06-06-05, 10:38 PM
jdtimmer
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Thanks,

We have a problem with condensation and the mold was so bad we needed to do something. We need to have ventelation put in roof. We'll definitely have a professional company to do the roof.

What the handyman has done was put framing/studding and then plaster board up over the existing walls and then tiled over the plasterboard to cover the mold problem. He put extra wiring in at the sametime. But he had left one small. 3x7' wall to do, and the wiring to finish and he stopped. That was 6 weeks ago. We did the wiring ourselves this past week. So that's what made us wonder if we could do the rest.

The walls are concrete. the floor is concrete, both are smooth and level. There is one wall the 3x7 which he hasn't put studding on. I'm wondering if we could just put the tiles over the painted cement or if we should do the studding?

I think I said the floor is our entry hall. It's 10sq mtr. There are carpet tiles on it now, they're so old the glue is just gone and coming lose. The floor to to my knowledge is concrete. It doesn't move or give you the hollow sound a wood floor does when you walk. I've lifted a few tiles in various places and it looks and feels like concrete. Before putting in new ceramic tiles will this glue need to be totally removed or can I get away with cleaning or sanding the floor really well then have the ceramic tiles put on?

I guess being a novice to ceramic tiling I'm concerned that we screw something up that's rather expensive to start with.

As for this handyman. I was venting a bit over this guy. He had a business knows what he's doing. He's just jerking us around IMO. And yes you do get what you pay for. But anyway. That's life when you can't do a project yourself.

Thank you for your reply.

jd


PS: another question our kitchen is wood floors but very solid. Can I tile over the floor or would vinyl flooring be best? I know one project at a time. I was told there's a special glue for ceramic tiles on wood floors. The floors "MUST" be solid with no give which we have. And the glue is a rubber type base. That takes the extra shock to prevent the tiles from cracking. But you will still have cracking of the grout. Anyone have experience with this?
 

Last edited by jdtimmer; 06-07-05 at 09:26 AM. Reason: In a hurry and just re-read the post didn't make a lot of sense.
  #4  
Old 06-07-05, 05:20 PM
T
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I would have solved and cleaned th4e mold problem first, not just cover it up, but that's another story.

I would stud the walls , before going over painted concrete, as long as the concrete floor is clean of paint, sealers, cracks, dirt and grime, you'll need a modified thinset and go for it.

Yes, scrape up all the glue, hot water might make this easier.

You can not tile over the wood floors, without a backerboard or a membrane, tell us more about this floor, joist size, spacing, length of unsupported span, what do have for a subfloor now, how thick and how many layers of what?

NO GLUE, modified thinsets only or unmodified under backerboard, when we get to that point.
 
 

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