Ceramic Tile Help


  #1  
Old 11-07-05, 10:22 PM
ncage1974
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Ceramic Tile Help

Hi everyone i just got started on my first really major project. I am installing ceramic tile in the kitchen and dining area. My house is designed so that my family room/kitchen/dining area are all in one room. The kitchen is in one of the corners with a triangle shaped area which was Linoleum. All other areas are carpet. I tore the linoleum up yesterdan and ive learned that its a PAIN. Once i tore up the linoleum and looked under the carpet i have found that they put wood underlayment on top of the subfloor for the linoleum part.

Now im don't know what to do. The underlayment runs under the cabinets so if want to try to remove the underlayment then id have to either remove the cabinents (which i definitly don't want to do) or try to cut the underlayment at the cabinents which i think would be near impossible to make a cut right up next to the cabinents.

Ok just to let you know the underlayment isn't that thick...maybe 1/8 in. My father wants me to try to gradually slope the difference between the floors by putting either a lot of mortar where the floor drops off and gradually sloping it or using some type of floor levener. This of course is the easiest way but will it work? Should i worry about my tile cracking if i do it this way? I mean like i said the underlayment is only about 1/8 in thick. What should i do?

OK i have just been doing some reading and i found something called a ToeKick saw. Seems like a great idea and ill have to check if i can rent one tommorrow at my local rental place. The only problem is my underlayment is only 1/8 to 1/4 in thick. If the toekick saw cuts 3/4 in deep that will be too deep unless they are adjustable. Maybe you can get another blade them but i don't know if the place around here will have anything like that. I really don't want to buy a new one and spend $250 for the small job im going to be doing. I checked on ebay and the only had one which was $269.

Another not nearly as important question i have which is unrelated to the first is...I have seen some articles mention that you ought to put mortar underneath the underlayment ( I will be using hardibacker). I have other people tell me you don't have to do that? So i guess do you HAVE to put mortor underneath the hardibacker or do you not?

thanks for your help,
Brent
 
  #2  
Old 11-09-05, 10:06 PM
workinman
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
content removed
 

Last edited by workinman; 11-13-05 at 01:30 PM. Reason: mis-read above
  #3  
Old 11-10-05, 07:55 AM
T
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,131
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
you can nail the hardi back down without morter, I allways use mastic over wood, just to fill the gaps. I would lay the hardi back over the 1/8 rise or drop, you will never notice it when you tile. 1/4" might be to high.
There is not 1 part of the quoted advice that anyone should ever follow. All backer obards must be set into a bed of mortar. All of them. The vinyl underlayement needs to go. Pry it up. Whatever it is, particle board, luan, masonite, etc, it is specificly exluded by every backer manufacturer as being able to be under their products. Minimum thickness of any plywood underlayment added to a subfloor is 3/8". Anything less, must go.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: