Have a real Floor Problem Help please

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  #1  
Old 10-28-06, 11:36 PM
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Smile Have a real Floor Problem Help please

Let me start off by saying I screwed up. I have a small 5 x8 bath and it had on the floor 12 x 12 old sq vinyle tile. I went to take the tiles off in this 50 year old house of mine. I tried to get them all off and it seem that the adhesive from the tiles was staying on the floor so I got desperate and poured on it acetone and mineral spirits on it and thought dang it is all off, Now I have been told that my thinset might not stick to the floor, if this is true what can I do now to get thinset to stick to the concrete, All the help appreciated for my Dumb era
 
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Old 10-29-06, 07:16 AM
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Drip some water on the floor in several places where you used the acetone and mineral spirits. Does the water bead up or does it soak in? For future reference, there are thinsets that can be used over cutback adhesive.
 
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Old 10-29-06, 07:22 AM
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Soaks in so now what

I reliace I screw up ut it is soaking in so now what
 
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Old 10-29-06, 07:25 AM
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Just chk again

Wife says it is beading in some places and soaking up in others so now what
 
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Old 10-30-06, 10:40 AM
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HeresJohnny

So what do I do now
 
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Old 10-30-06, 01:17 PM
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Big Bob ...you could install cement board over the entire floor and tile directly onto that. You would screw the cement board into the floor, directly over the ripped up vinyl and organic chemical mess. The only issue with doing this is if you use the thinnest Hardy Backer board which I believe is 1/4", it would raise your floor height by this much now so it might not line up with the adjoining room. If it does, then you're OK. You would want to make sure your toilet fits to the flange in the new height, too, by using extended length flange bolts and an extra long wax seal (or 2 stuck together). I don't know if all of this is the best option for you but it is an option in case nothing better comes along.

Steve
 
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Old 10-30-06, 03:25 PM
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BigBob,
The only thing I can think of is to scarify the slab. I know its not what you want to hear. The acetone probably evaporated before it did any damage. The mineral spirits on the other hand may have carried the "cut back" with it as it soaked into the slab. Two thing I suggest you do: 1/ scarify the slab with coarse paper and then try the water test to see if if soaks into it or stays beaded. A 'porous slab is a happy slab'. The cement in the thinset will have a chance to grip the slab and create a bond. A little "factoid" for you. Cement, as it cures, grows little legs or fibers to attach itself to something else. (tile, sand in the thinset,or substrate.) 2/ call the manufacturer of your thinset to find out if the mineral spirits will adversley affect the bonding.
Good Luck and let us know how you made out.

Jim
 
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Old 10-30-06, 04:06 PM
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Scarifying the slab is the recommended option. Installing concrete underlayment board over concrete tends not to be recommended.
 
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Old 10-30-06, 07:11 PM
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Bob

I agree with Tile Pro here. If the slab is not absorbing water youll have to scarify it. The slab needs to be able to absorb water for the thinset to bond.

Do not under any circumstances use cbu over the slab as was suggested.
 
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Old 10-31-06, 10:44 AM
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Yeah, I advertantly missed the fact that his floor was a slab. I glossed over the word "concrete" in his last line. I thought his bathroom was on a wood floor in which case cement board would be an OK option. My bad.

Steve
 
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Old 11-04-06, 03:17 PM
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Arrow Drying time

I need to know how long you have to wait to get on the tile once it is layed. I have a couple of areas that I could not get to but want to be sure it is dry before I get on it so it want move
 
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Old 11-04-06, 04:44 PM
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BigBob
When was the last tile installed? Did you use a modified thinset? Most thinset manufacturers recommend 16 to 24 HR after setting the tile. Best bet is to check the label.
 
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