Installing Tile on Existing Tile??

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Old 01-09-07, 11:06 AM
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Installing Tile on Existing Tile??

My bathroom floor has 8x8 ceramic glazed tiles on concrete slab and is in very good shape. I want to re-tile using either 12x12 or 16x16 ceramic or natural stone tile. I have been told this is no problem and done all the time and others say you must remove the old tile and adhesive(huge job). I have found little if any discussion of placing tile on old tile in do-it-yourself books. However, in reading instructions on applying thin coat at home depot they give instructions on placing it on existing ceramic tile floors in preparation for new tile. So, can you or can't you and what are the proper steps in doing it? THANKS
 
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Old 01-09-07, 11:33 AM
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It can be done, but might be simpler in the long rum to take out the old tile. You'll have to undercut the door jambs, add a toilet flange extender, scuff up the old tile to get the new adhesive to stick,....
 
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Old 01-09-07, 06:09 PM
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Use a premium modified thinset. Scuff the floor like mitch said.I have used 80 grit sandpaper on a belt sander.

He is also correct about adding flanges and cutting the casings.

Flat trowel the grout joints,let it set over night.Knock off your high spots and lay the floor.
If there are hairline cracks in the floor or grout, now you may want to remove it and start from scratch.
 
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Old 01-09-07, 11:28 PM
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Examine the grout in the existing floor closely. What looks like a floor in good shape at first glance or to the untrained eye may, in reality, not be. Grout with cracks in it, no matter how small, or grout that has small cracks between the tile and grout, where the grout touches the tiles, indicates a floor that is moving. A floor that is really in good shape will have no cracks as a general rule. Small cracks may indicate the tile is not well adhered. They can also indicate problems with the slab. If they're small, are the slab, and the slab is old enough it has done what it's going to do, it can be dealt with without removing the old tile. After following all of the previous correct instructions, apply an anti fracture membrane before tiling. I use Red Guard. It's a fairly viscous liquid, about the consistency of the white past the weird kids in kindergarten ate. It's a bright pink when first applied and then turns very red when it dries. I would suggest one step the instructions don't mention. If applied full strength it forms a plastic feeling skin on the floor that can be peeled off because the material is not liquid enough to soak in and get a good bond. Mix some of it with water, about fifty fifty, and paint it on. This coat will soak into your skim or leveling coat and bond with it. After it has dried, apply the material according to the instructions. The two coats will bond to each other and the whole thing sticks better. One way to determine if your tiles are loose is to take a small ball bearing or a BB and let it bounce on a concrete slab such as the garage floor or a side walk. Observe the way it bounces. Then, after you're familiar with what it should do, do it again on the tile in question. It should bounce the same as it did on the concrete. If it has less bounce or is a bit dead, tap each tile with a wooden spoon or the handle of something and observe the sound differences. You should have no hollow sounds and all the tiles should sound the same. If, on close examination, you find no cracks and the floor really is in good shape, follow the previous instructions and have fun.
 
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Old 01-10-07, 06:52 AM
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I have never used Redgard for this type of application but I think it will work very well,not mention it will give the floor a miosture barrier
 
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