Removing old ceramic floor, install a new one


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Old 03-03-07, 01:40 PM
D
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Question Removing old ceramic floor, install a new one

Sorry if this has been posted. I did a search and didn't see anything with my situation.

We are wanting to replace our ceramic floor. We installed it ourselves several years ago, but went the "cheap" way the first time, and used plain, white tiles. It was our first DIY ceramic tile job. I'm wanting to do a little more ceramic work now, counter, and behind the tub, and I want different tile.

Our tile is over plywood floor and subfloor, not a concrete slab. How do I remove the tiles without damaging the plywood? How far down do I have to go? Can the backerboard be saved? Or do I have to remove it, too? Would it be easier to tile over it? What about transitioning to the hallway (hardwood)?

Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old 03-03-07, 06:39 PM
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Depends on how well the tiles are stuck to the floor, and did you use thinset under the backerboard? You should have but if not it will make the rip up easier. Tell us more about what is under the tile. It may be possible to rent a demolition hammer and tear up both the tile and backerboard in one shot. If the tile is down solid with no cracks or loose grout and there is thinset under the backerboard, it could be possible to set new tile over the old. Height and additional weight will be the major issues. Transitions to other flooring can be done with wood reducers stained to match the hardwood.
 
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Old 03-03-07, 07:02 PM
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Cool Ceramic Tile removal

I have been re-modeling our master bath as my latest project. I started to remove the tiles on a vertical surface with a hammer and chisel then I got smart and rented a demolition hammer. This was the best time saver (and knuckle saver). Demo hammers come in various weights. I suggest you use a lighter unit if you are doing any ceramic tile removal from walls as the hammer will get heavy quickly when holding it against the wall.

The hammer works great on the floor - but do be careful not to push down too much - especially with a heavier hammer. It is easy to go through the tile, backerboard and or mud in a hurry and you do not want to have to replace the subfloor if there has not been water damage. Use a very wide chisel. The rental places should supply you with a couple choices.

You will find that the hardest part of this job is not breaking up the old ceramic tile - it is removing the debris afterwards. Grab a couple of 5 gallon buckets and have at it.

Oh yea. Don't bother trying to save the backer board. Just take out the old and start with the new. Anything less is just setting yourself up for dissapointment later....

Depending upon where you live - you may want to consider adding heated flooring. Now is the best time to research it. I plan on putting it in for those cold nights and mornings.

Good Luck!!
 
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Old 03-04-07, 03:43 AM
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Yes, Tileguybob, there is thinset under the backerboard, and it is screwed down, not nailed. So, under the tile from the bottom up is:

Plywood subfloor
Plywood floor
Thinset
cement backerboard
Thinset
Ceramic

JoeZ, thanks, this hammer sounds like the real deal. The warmer is not a big issue, I'm in NC, just outside of Charlotte. Cold is not an issue most of the time, but its an idea I hadn't thought about.
 
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Old 03-05-07, 12:20 PM
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Sounds like you did the job right the first time. Thats good. You can go over the old tile with new as long as theres no cracked or loose tiles, no cracked or loose grout. Run a sander with some rough grit paper over the old tile to rough up the glaze. Then remove all dust and debris from the floor. Set the tile with a good modified thinset. Issues will be re-installing the toilet and transition height to hardwood in the hallway. As Tileguybob said, "Transitions to other flooring can be done with wood reducers stained to match the hardwood." As for the toilet, you can use a thicker wax ring, or two wax rings, or you could use a flange extender. So if you don't mind the additional height, this will be a lot easier than demoing the old.
 
 

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