New Bath installation questions.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NE INDIANA
Posts: 109
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
New Bath installation questions.
I'm framing my bathroom (new construction), and have acquired the fixtures that we will be using; tub, toilet, & sink. We are planning on using ceramic tile on the floor, and since this is all new to me, I have a couple of questions. The subfloor is OSB, and I understand that a cement backer-board must be put down next. The tub is a "skirted" Jacuzzi tub, and while it is sitting in the intended position, I see the skirt doesn't quite touch the subfloor, and I assume this is normal to prevent pressure being exerted on the skirting. When the backer board is installed, should it be installed under the entire tub, or be fitted around the skirt? The same question applies to the toilet; should the backer board be under the flange, with the tiles fitted around the stool base, or would it be better to have even the tiles extend to the flange, setting the stool on top of the tiles? I have no experience with tiles yet, hence my ignorance about the basics. Thank you for any advice and opinions.
#2
If the Jacuzzi skirt is the repair access to a pump, piping, etc. under a tub, I would keep the skirt above the finished tile - it would be easier to remove and replace, IMO. Otherwise, you could tile up to the skirt and grout between them if wanted.
The toilet flange should set on top of the finished tile. If you don't want to raise the existing flange, you can install backer board and tile right up to the flange and then install spacer flange(s) to raise the flange height up to the proper level.
With the backer board, remember to put it down using thinset and screws or roofing nails (a pneumatic coil nailer is nice for this).
The toilet flange should set on top of the finished tile. If you don't want to raise the existing flange, you can install backer board and tile right up to the flange and then install spacer flange(s) to raise the flange height up to the proper level.
With the backer board, remember to put it down using thinset and screws or roofing nails (a pneumatic coil nailer is nice for this).
#3
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,241
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
The previous is good information with the exception of the grout between the skirt and tile. Every grout made has a corresponding color matched caulk that is designed to be used in two situations. Angle or plane changes and material changes. Your situation has both in one shot. The tub material and tile will expand and contract differently which will cause grout to crack and break out. Grout will not tolerate any movement. Also, the vertical plane of the tub will move independently of the horizontal plane of the floor which will again cause the grout to crack and break out. Use color matched caulk instead of grout. It will move with the surfaces without misbehaving where the grout will not.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NE INDIANA
Posts: 109
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you both for your quick responses.The skirt has a cut-out a few inches above the bottom edge that has removable panels, so I can caulk against the skirt without creating an access problem. I shall do a little more research on the tiling process before I begin, but I think I have a better handle on how to proceed. I didn't realize that matching caulk was available (or needed), but it makes sense. You probably saved me a lot of grief....