Tile Shower Stall

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Old 03-04-08, 09:42 AM
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Tile Shower Stall

So I am in the process of developing my basement and want to build a tile shower. I don't have lots of room so it can only be about 32 x 32. My plan is to buy a fiberglass/acrylic pan for the bottom so that will not be tiled, but I will need to tile the walls. Now I have read up on how to do it using the durarock with a vapor barrier behind it and silicone all the cracks, etc and hang the vapor barrier over the shower pan so if water gets behind the durarock it will still go down the drain. The the rest is just the normal tiling, grouting and sealing process. So I think I have this part of the process down packed.

My main concern is that I have a ledge that I want to use for a shelf in the shower. It is about 32 inches long and about 6 inches deep. I plan to put some 1/2 plywood on it first and slope it so water will drain into the shower and not pool there. Then I will install the vapor barrier in the entire shower so it is completely sealed.Then I will install the durarock, silicone its joints and then tile it.

Is this the right process for me to build the ledge or is there a better way to do it? I am mainly concerned with it being sealed and leak free.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 12:45 PM
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I plan to put some 1/2 plywood on it first
What is there now? If its 2 x framing, you dont need the plywood. You can attach cement board to the framing. For that type ledge, if it will get direct water spray (I assume since 32" x 32" shower) you need a surface applied water proofing over the cement board. You can use a paint on membrane like Custom Redgard (sold at HD). Mud with thinset and tape all the joints for the ledge. Apply the Redgard starting at least as high on the wall as the shower spray will hit. Apply all the way down to the ledge, over the ledge and 6" or so down below the ledge. Apply 2 or 3 coats. The idea is any water that makes its way under the tile will not get past the membrane.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:23 PM
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Hey Bainer

Twice on the same forum. What gives.

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=337345
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:30 PM
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Sorry for the double post, I posted in the Bathroom topic before reading the Sticky. It said to put specific questions about tile in the Tile forum, electrical in the electric, plumbing in the plumbing etc. So I re-posted here
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:34 PM
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Hey thats ok. We forgive you.

Hopefully you dont get conflicting answers in each place.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HeresJohnny View Post
What is there now? If its 2 x framing, you dont need the plywood. You can attach cement board to the framing.
It is framed with 2x4, so I assume that I don't need the plywood for that as well?

Do you think the vapor barrier is a good idea or forget it? If I don't install it how do I ensure that water doesn't get behind the cement board?

Originally Posted by HeresJohnny View Post
Mud with thinset and tape all the joints for the ledge. Apply the Redgard starting at least as high on the wall as the shower spray will hit.
My shower has 2 body sprays that will be aiming directly at the shelf, only way to do it so it will get lots of water. Should I tap and thinset all seams / joints in the entire shower or is that overkill?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do it right the first time...
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:45 PM
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Go read your other post. I'm out of breath from answering your questions over there. Duplicate posts are trouble and will only serve to confuse everything even more.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Go read your other post. I'm out of breath from answering your questions over there. Duplicate posts are trouble and will only serve to confuse everything even more.
Hi Bud,

Sorry to make two of them. Anyways I read your response and still had the questions below...
 
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Old 03-04-08, 02:52 PM
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If you are just going to redgard the shelf area, you can put vapor barrier behind the cement board. If you plan to redgard the whole shower than no vapor barrier.

You have to mud and tape all the joints, its not an option.

When you have two threads going like this its hard to keep up with what everyone has told you.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 03:00 PM
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You bet two threads is bad, that's why I am trying to keep this the main one, but I think I'm loosing the battle.

Alright I think I got it, tape and thinset the entire shower then redgard the entire shower as well.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 03:09 PM
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Using RedGard on the entire shower is going to get you out of trying to keep the plastic moisture barrier in proper position while installing the wallboard. It will be much easier and guarantee you things will work out, unlike the way it is going here right now with two threads running on the same subject at the same time.

Now I have to go to the other thread and see if I've said anything else new over there since I last posted over there.

Oh wait! I'm here. Oh well I'll go check anyway.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 03:21 PM
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Thansk Bud!!!

One final question. Since I am using a fiberglass shower pan, I assume the cement board will hang over it a bit so that any moisture will drain into the pan and go down the drain. Do I need to do anything special other than making sure the cement board hangs over the shower pan lip? Do I seal it somehow, or just use redgard to the bottom of the cement board and that's it?
 
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Old 03-04-08, 03:36 PM
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I just can't...

tell you how hard I'm laughing!

Bainer, you will get the very best advice from Mr. Cline, but you have to pay for it by reading his less than subtle reponses.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 04:36 PM
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haha he seems like a character that's for sure. But he also sound slike he knows his stuff so I have to keep asking to soak up all the info.

Bud please see my question below...
 
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Old 03-04-08, 05:38 PM
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After about eight or more years of this masochism on these Internet Forums one has a tendency to get a little tart from time to time. My wife tells everyone I'm harmless (to everyone except myself) but the truth is I'm more like Achmed The Dead Terrorist - I'll Kill You!!!!!

OK OK OK, bainer1290 back to business. Yes the wallboard hangs over the lip assuming there is a lip, should be a lip. You would then want to caulk that crevice totally. Then paint the board down to that point and if you could get a little waterproofing painted in there atop the caulk that would be real nifty also.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 06:19 PM
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Got it.

I assume an acrylic caulk is fine?
 
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Old 03-04-08, 07:25 PM
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An acrylic "tub and tile caulk" is fine. Don't just use any ole painter's caulk you come across.
 
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Old 03-04-08, 09:05 PM
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Alright I'll post back with any other info i need. Thanks for your help!
 
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