Granite Tile for Counter


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Old 07-18-08, 07:02 AM
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Granite Tile for Counter

I want to replace a counter that is sort of a breakfast bar (12" x 96") with a granite tile counter. I have a few questions, but let me spell out the tentative plan:

3/4" MDF, 1/4" Hardibacker, thinset mortar (I have some leftover Mapei Ultracontact if that will work), then 12" x 12" granite tiles that are special order at Lowe's. Then I plan to wrap it with some oak trim they sell for this purpose. It will basically be eight 12" x 12" tiles end to end, so the new counter will be about 13.5" wide with the trim.

I had thought about two layers of MDF, but that would make the assembly thicker than what the trim will hide (the long side of the L-shaped trim is 1.5").

1) Should I apply thinset between the MDF and the Hardibacker?

2) How thick should the thinset be on top of the Hardibacker? (3/16" square notch?)

3) What type of grout should I use? (Since there are only grout lines going in one direction, I'd like to keep them as thin as possible)

4) Should I grout between the tile and the oak trim?

5) The trim will need to go over the Hardibacker (the short side of the 'L') so that it is flush with the top of the tile. I assume I will need to just knife away the thinset on the edges after I set the tiles.


Is there anything wrong with this plan?


Thanks!
 
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Old 07-18-08, 08:37 AM
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Is there anything wrong with this plan?
Yes - MDF is particle board in disguise. It shouldnt be used anywhere in a tile installation. Use exterior glue plywood instead. Additionally, you should use at least to layers of plywood (I know some will disagree with me on this, they usually do). 3/4" and then 1/2" should be good. You will be spanning 22" or so from front to back of the cabinets with no supports in the middle. Natural stone will often develop cracks easier than ceramic/porcelain. You mentioned breakfast bar. If there is any kind of substantial overhang, you need a way to reinforce it. If not, eventually the tile over the cabinet edge will crack.

1) Should I apply thinset between the MDF and the Hardibacker?
As mentioned, no mdf. Yes you need thinset between the plywood and hardi.

2) How thick should the thinset be on top of the Hardibacker? (3/16" square notch?)
1/4" square notch trowel.

3) What type of grout should I use? (Since there are only grout lines going in one direction, I'd like to keep them as thin as possible)
Use a non sanded grout and seal it.

4) Should I grout between the tile and the oak trim?
No grout here as it will crack do to different expansion rates of dissimilar materials. Caulk it.

5) The trim will need to go over the Hardibacker (the short side of the 'L') so that it is flush with the top of the tile. I assume I will need to just knife away the thinset on the edges after I set the tiles.
Remove as much of the thinset as you can while you set the tile. The next morning you can remove anything you missed with a utility knife.
 
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Old 07-18-08, 12:09 PM
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Exterior glued plywood - got it - thanks!

The span is only about 13" and it is supported all the way across that in several places, and the overhang is only about 3" (more would protrude into the walkway too much.

Due to the overall thickness, I can't do 3/4" + 1/2" or it will be thicker than the trim. How about 1/2" + 1/2"? Should I fasten the plywood pieces together with contact cement or wood glue?

For the thinset under the Hardibacker, is 1/8" V-notch good?


Thanks again!
 
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Old 07-18-08, 02:17 PM
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you can get wider trim, if not at Lowe's, a real lumber yard.
 
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Old 07-18-08, 02:43 PM
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1/2" ply is not good enough. Look into Schluters Rondec trim line.



http://www.schluter.com/2_8_rondec_ct.aspx
 
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Old 07-19-08, 03:11 PM
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The Schluter product is kind of interesting, but it looks like it also only hides 1.5". Also, like the trim I was looking at made by Royal Mouldings, it looks like it is made for 1/4" ceramic tile. All of the natural stone tiles I looked at are 3/8" thick. Royal Mouldings doesn't make any other dimensions, and I'm thinking that even if I look around I won't find the dimensions I'm looking for.

Now, I think I can either just wrap it with oak 1 x 2's (true), which wouldn't be as stable as when you have the overlap from the L-shaped profile, or I can try to get the L-shape profile made for me with the dimensions I need. I have a friend who has a table saw and router table; if he has the time he might be able to help me.

If I get the L-shape made, how much should I add to the 3/8" thickness of the tile for the layer of thinset underneath (how high will the tile be off the backer board)?
 
 

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