Bathroom Floor Tiling Advice Requested!!

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Old 02-20-09, 06:26 PM
W
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Bathroom Floor Tiling Advice Requested!!

Hi all,
I've got all of the materials on site to put in a new tile floor in my mothers 1975 second floor condo bathroom. I'm trying to limit the amount of dollar and energy expenditure as she will be leaving probably within the next few years and the bath and kitchen will be certainly totally rehabbed by whomever purchases the unit. I have read the "Don't lay tile over Vinyl" sticky. Background is as follows:

1) BR floor space is roughly 8 x 5'. Second floor of a condo with sheet vinyl on the floor.
I don't know what's under it in terms of subfloor or which way joists run. The floor is "perfectly flat".

2) We have chosen 2" white square tiles on a 12" mesh.

3) My plan so far is to install 1/4" hardibacker over the sheet vinyl. I would rough up the vinyl with 60 grade sandpaper before spreading thinset. Use 1 1/4" hardibacker screws. Install tile,seal and grout.

Given the background and conditions I've listed is it acceptable to go over the vinyl with the Hardibacker? I have a bit of experience with removal of sheet vinyl and it can massively nasty,time consuming work. I'm ready to begin the project as planned tomorrow morning unless I hear a resounding chorus of no's. Please....feel free to chime in!


Thanks in advance for all responses,

wvdthree
 
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Old 02-20-09, 07:19 PM
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You first need to know how the subfloor system is constructed and if is suitable for tiles. Joists configuration, plywood thickness etc.

Most sheet vinyl out there is printed and has a slight cushion to it. You cannot install Hardie or any CBU over cushioned sheet vinyl.

If it was the correct type inlaid vinyl or vinyl tiles, there is no need to sand. If it's real old, it may contain asbestos.

If the flooring is vinyl and it's over a wooden subfloor, you should have a 1/4" underlayment under the vinyl. That has to come up along with the vinyl.

Jaz
 
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Old 02-20-09, 07:40 PM
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Jaz,
It sounds like you're saying that even if I can determine the vinyl to be a "correct type" I would still have to pull up some of it and 1/4" underlayment to discover how the subfloor system is constructed?

Can you tell me how to distinguish cushioned vinyl from inlaid vinyl? Also,why are vinyl tiles acceptable to put Hardi and ceramic tiles over?

Thanks for the comments.

wvdthree
 
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Old 02-20-09, 08:54 PM
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You are not going to discover how the framing and subfloor system is built by solely removing the vinyl or the 1/4" underlayment. If you have 1/4" plywood under the vinyl, both should be taken to the curb next week.

You need to figure out how the floor is framed. Is it built like a house, with 2x ? joists and then just plywood over it? Or maybe they also poured a product like Gypcrete over the ply? That is your task to find out and report back.

Cushioned vinyl has a pattern which is printed with a clear vinyl finish over it. You can test it by gouging it with a pointed object to see if it dents or cuts. Most vinyls are made this way. Some are only adhere at the perimeter too.

Inlaid sheet vinyl is made from thousands of tiny vinyl pebbles arranged in a pattern. This type of vinyl only come in 6' wide rolls max. The cushioned stuff come in 6, 9, 12 and even wider sheets.

Vinyl and vinyl composition tiles are not cushioned. But again there might be a 1/4" underlayment under them if the sub is wooden.

Jaz
 
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Old 02-23-09, 09:57 PM
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"Given the background and conditions I've listed is it acceptable to go over the vinyl with the Hardibacker?"
Yes!

Jaz is correct in what he said.

But he did not take into consideration what you said you are looking for.

Lay the hardi, plop your tiles and you will be good until you sell it in 2-4 yrs.
 
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Old 02-24-09, 12:43 PM
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"Given the background and conditions I've listed is it acceptable to go over the vinyl with the Hardibacker?"
Yes!

Jaz is correct in what he said.

But he did not take into consideration what you said you are looking for.

Lay the hardi, plop your tiles and you will be good until you sell it in 2-4 yrs.
I not sure I like this advice. What are you saying here, just slop it together and let it be someone elses problem in a few years?
 
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Old 02-24-09, 07:58 PM
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"I not sure I like this advice. What are you saying here, just slop it together and let it be someone elses problem in a few years?"
NO, pay attention to what the person said. It won't be a problem in a few yrs, it will be a problem in about 10-12 yrs.

I listened to what wvdthree said. "I'm trying to limit the amount of dollar and energy expenditure as she will be leaving probably within the next few years and the bath and kitchen will be certainly totally rehabbed by whomever purchases the unit."

As was discussed in my mud bed post, can the customer afford or are willing to pay to have it done right? Most times, NO! So from a business point of view a person has to find a way to give the customer what they want and still make money. Hence the introduction of quick and easy; RS thinset, backer board, ditra,..etc..

I think any type of tile set on less then 2" of base is a short term install. ( less then 20 yrs) As was stated in a previous post "just slop it together". That covers any of your backer boards, plastic under layments, mud beds, set on a sub floor, ..etc..
 
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