Ceramic tile over hardwood floor?

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Old 07-02-09, 11:28 AM
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Ceramic tile over hardwood floor?

Can I install ceramic tile over the old hardwood flooring. My wife wants to switch from hardwood to tile and I'd rather not tear out the old flooring if I can avoid it. Also, we have a large kitchen island with granite top, it weighs a ton. Can I just tile up to it or do I have to take it out of the kitchen before I start tiling and then bring it back in I have no idea how to move the thing).
 
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Old 07-02-09, 11:59 AM
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Good news and bad.

First the good, you can tile up to the island, you do not have to remove it.

The bad, the hardwood floors have to go. The expansion and contraction of the individual boards will kill a tile installation. Remove the hardwood and let us know what you have for a subfloor.
 
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Old 07-02-09, 12:04 PM
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Thanks for the quick answer. I know the sub-floor is 3/4-5/8 inch plywood. Based on your answer, I'll still have to remove the island because the hardwood floor is beneath it too. The cabinets, and island, were installed several weeks after the floor was installed when we had the house built. Is it relatively easy/hard to tear out the hardwood? I guess I can just use a regular pry bar/nail puller?
 
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Old 07-02-09, 12:12 PM
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Can I install ceramic tile over the old hardwood flooring.
I wouldn't try it. The varnish would probably have to be roughed up, the narrow boards might be concave or convex slightly in place and not fully supporting the tile, and you would have to use ceramic tile mastic or special thinset both expensive. I'd screw down " cement backer board. Then you can just use regular thin set. You could also use 3/8" CDX and ceramic tile mastic.
[QUOTE ]Also, we have a large kitchen island with granite top, it weighs a ton. Can I just tile up to it or do I have to take it out of the kitchen before I start tiling and then bring it back in I have no idea how to move the thing).[/QUOTE] Yes, just tile up to it. If it is stick built it won't be movable any way.
 
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Old 07-02-09, 09:47 PM
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I agree with Johnny, the hardwood should be removed if you wanna do it right. Once removed we might recommend more plywood depending on how the floor is framed and the type of tiles you chose.

You can keep the hardwood under the island irrespective of what you do. You'll need a cabinet "toe- saw" to cut along the cabinets.

Hey Ray, Where did you get those ideas? The only thin I agree with is your first statement...."I wouldn't try it."

Jaz
 
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Old 07-02-09, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
I agree with Johnny, the hardwood should be removed if you wanna do it right. Once removed we might recommend more plywood depending on how the floor is framed and the type of tiles you chose.

You can keep the hardwood under the island irrespective of what you do. You'll need a cabinet "toe- saw" to cut along the cabinets.

Hey Ray, Where did you get those ideas? The only thin I agree with is your first statement...."I wouldn't try it."

Jaz
Their all mine. Around here there would be no subfloor just hardwood on sleepers embedded in cut-back asphaltic adhesive poured on a concrete slab. What you are purposing would be way more work then the customer would be willing to pay for and they would find some one who wouldn't even bother with underlayment. Not saying you aren't right just being realistic.
 
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Old 07-03-09, 09:38 PM
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They're all yours? Great!

We are here to give people good advice. People think that because we are here, we are all experts. Especially if someone doesn't say, hey, wait a minute.

We have to base our answers based on the situation of the customer's home, not how floors are installed where we live. He has a hardwood floor over 3/4" plywood subfloor, not hardwood over sleepers over concrete.

You said; The varnish would probably have to be roughed up, the narrow boards might be concave or convex slightly in place and not fully supporting the tile, and you would have to use ceramic tile mastic or special thinset both expensive.

Who would consider installing tile direct over hardwood? I would never recommend using mastic, and thinset mortar is not expensive.

You then said; I'd screw down " cement backer board. Then you can just use regular thin set. You could also use 3/8" CDX and ceramic tile mastic.

Although not recommended to install any CBU over hardwood, you didn't mention applying thinset under the CBU. I believe all CBU manufacturers recommend a modified thinset to install tiles to the board, not regular unmodified thinset. You then recommended CDX and mastic. I definitely disagree with that.

CDX is a cheap grade of sheathing plywood and is not recommended as an underlayment. But, I know the temptation of buying the cheap stuff and save $10 per sheet. Mastic on floors is not good.

Jaz
 
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Old 07-28-09, 02:42 PM
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So glad I saw this forum. eHow has an article on laying tile over hardwood flooring like it's no big deal. I'm trying to expand my hearth over the surrounding hardwood floor with tile, maybe a total of seven square feet. Is this a big enough area to worry about expansion?
 
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Old 07-28-09, 03:02 PM
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It could be, so why take a chance. Cut the section of hardwood out and go from there.
 
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Old 08-22-09, 02:26 AM
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My house was built in the 50', raised floor on 2x6 joister, 1x6 subfloor, with original 1/2" solid oak floor. Both bathrooms, one 8x7 the other 8x5, had vinyl plywood sheet on top of oak floor.

8 years ago I didn't know to join a forum or search internet, naively installed cement board on top of old oak floor.

First, I remove vinyl plywood, countersink galvanized screws from oak floor 1" into 1x6 subfloor every 8", with more around sqeeky spots. Cut out and replace damaged oak with 1/2" plywood, cut and replace damaged subfloor with 1x6 board.

After the oak floor is sound (no sqeeky) and screwed down to subfloor, I apply Henry 208 roofing cement, then install 1/4" cement board, a hardyback, by screwing it down with countersink screw passing cement board, oak floor, and into the subfloor (or 1/4" into joister if it is there).

Luckily both baths tiles are still in perfect shape, no crack on tiles or grout. Now that I read forum's advice, on my next project - install 18x18 tiles in dinning room and hallway, I'll remove oak floor, install 1/2" plywood on top of 1x6 subfloor before installing hardyback board for porcelain.

DIO
 
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