Mortar bed for shower floor

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Old 08-18-09, 04:37 PM
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Mortar bed for shower floor

Hi,

I just remodeled my master bath it is upstairs, and the plumber/tile guy that did the shower pan never came back. I started thinking there was a problem, so I did research and came to your site.

First he did lay 2x12's between the studs and put down roofing felt. But what he didn't do was use a mesh/lathe over it, and used some kind of concrete mix under the water tight membrane? Also until doing research did not know about deflection and proper support. (I have 2x12 supports and they are about 16 inches apart and 16 feet long, I know this because about two month ago the sheetrock was just replace, textured, and painted.

He did use a 3 piece drain. When he didn't come back, I have decided to finish it. I layed a mesh/lathe above the presloped membrane and only nailed the mesh outside the curb. I used the 60 pound bag of sand topping mix and added about 30 pounds of playsand to get the 1 to 5 ratio (as found on another tile site). I am adding a cement block bench also. The dry mortar mix seems to have dried and hardened. Here is where my questions come in:

1) How much of a concern should I have about the preslope that the plumber/tile guy constructed?

2) The dry mortar bed I have just completed seems to release a lot of little bits of sand if I run my hand over it, is this normal?

3) And I've gone the the big home improvement stores to look for a thin set mortar to lay the tile over the shower floor, but when reading the labels all of them say NOT FOR SHOWER FLOORS. Which dry-set mortar can I use over the dry mortar bed that is for shower floors?

I am putting down traventine.

And another question (hope this is not to long) a built a shower nitch. All I did was between the studs a created a space put down horizontal 2x4 for the horizontal part of the nitch. I covered the nitch with roofing paper, then used easy board (screwed in) to the frame of the nitch. I was going to use silicone sealant to put around the joints, but am not sure that this is the best way to do it.

Well thanks for any responses you can provide.
 
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Old 08-18-09, 06:09 PM
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1) How much of a concern should I have about the preslope that the plumber/tile guy constructed?
How thick was this first preslope? It should be alright however since the first preslope is to slope the pan liner.

2) The dry mortar bed I have just completed seems to release a lot of little bits of sand if I run my hand over it, is this normal?
It's normal. If you are missing chunks of mortar, then there might be a problem. If you mixed your playsand and topping mix to the consistency of damp beach sand, it should be just fine.

3) And I've gone the the big home improvement stores to look for a thin set mortar to lay the tile over the shower floor, but when reading the labels all of them say NOT FOR SHOWER FLOORS. Which dry-set mortar can I use over the dry mortar bed that is for shower floors?
Home Depot has Custom products, like Versabond or Flexbond, both are good. Lowes has Mapei products which are good as well. Just do not use anything that comes in a bucket.

As for the niche, make sure the bottom shelf is sloped to the shower. It doesn't have to be much. I would then cover your niche seams with cement board tape and thinset, then coat the seams 3-4 times with Redgard (available at HD).

Sounds like you did some reading, which is good. We are here to help you through the process. From what you have now, regarding the preslope and deflection, you should be ok. If you want to redo what the plumber did, it aint that expensive seeing it's just dirt. How was the curb constructed?
 
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Old 08-18-09, 06:36 PM
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How was the curb constructed?[/QUOTE]

Before laying the thinset down do I have to sweep up the lose dirt and I pressed down on the dried mortar bed and some parts seem like they will chip off? Some of the mud on the curb did crumble off when I pressed on it right now and I guess what I'm concerned about is if that is normal? some parts seem a little softer (loose) and other parts seem pretty hard.
The curb I had put down three 2x4 stacked on top of each other. I screwed them down and at the ends I screwed at an angle into the walls ( I think the term is bullnosed?).

The membrane went around them and then I put the mesh. I did just check it my mortar bed and there is one little area where the lathe/mesh comes out a little, it doesn't effect the slope but you can see it (maybe 1/2 inch x 1 inch sticking out). I'm thinking it's ok. The mortar I made when squeezed didn't crumble (held together) and didn't leave any moisture on my hand, which is what I read on another site.

Thanks again for the responses.
 
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Old 08-18-09, 06:47 PM
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It will seem pourous compared to normal concrete, so that's normal. Typically, you add a little lime to the mix for the curb so it's a bit more stickier.

Can you take some pictures? You may need to upload them to photobucket or another service, then post the IMG url back here.

Sounds like you don't have any major issues though. I'm a little tired, so if I don't make sense, I apologize.
 
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Old 08-19-09, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HotinOKC View Post
It will seem pourous compared to normal concrete, so that's normal. Typically, you add a little lime to the mix for the curb so it's a bit more stickier.

Can you take some pictures? You may need to upload them to photobucket or another service, then post the IMG url back here.

Sounds like you don't have any major issues though. I'm a little tired, so if I don't make sense, I apologize.
Sorry,

I don't have the capabilty to take pictures. Thanks for the info though.
 
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Old 08-19-09, 07:32 PM
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I have a question about the Redguard you recommended for the niche...I used Easyboard to go up the walls of my shower, would the Redguard be a good idea to put on the Easyboard? I haven't had a chance to go to HomeDepot and check it out yet, but wanted to see if this was a good idea, so I know to get enough.

I'm just a little paranoid considering this is an upstairs shower and any leaking damages the downstairs. I was thinking it wouldn't hurt and I'm assuming (haven't read directions on it) that I can tile over the redguard.
 
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Old 08-19-09, 11:35 PM
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Sorry one last question.

I have one wall where the shower tile will end and meet with the sheetrock. I had a guy come in to texture the walls, and he ran the texture to past the joint of the drywall and easyboard. I doubt this area will get to much, but I'm not sure if I should sand the texture off of the area where the tile will be or if the thinset will stick to the top of the texture?
 
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