Tile Install w/ Ditra-Before or After Cabinets?

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-14-09, 05:17 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Tile Install w/ Ditra-Before or After Cabinets?

Getting really close to the kitchen remodel. The contractor is telling me to wait to lay the tile until after he's done with the cabinets. After researching, there seems to be two schools of thought:
  1. Install cabinets after and on top of tile
  2. Raise level under cabinets to match finished floor height and install tile after cabinets
If I choose to wait, since I'm using Ditra, do I still have to raise the height of the cabinets for the dishwasher to fit? I can see a problem if I use 1/2" cbu, but will the height of Ditra and tile cause dishwasher issues?

I really want to lay a border and it seems like it would be WAY easier after cabinets are already in... just in case they shim anything and throw the lines off a bit. What do you guys think?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-14-09, 05:57 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,524
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Sin

My preference would be to tile the floor and then install the cabinets, but you can do it either way.

Ditra and tile is not likely to cause a problem for you with the dishwasher. There should be plenty of adjustment height in the unit.

What do you currently have for a subfloor? What kind of tile will you be using?
 
  #3  
Old 12-14-09, 06:10 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HeresJohnny View Post
Sin

My preference would be to tile the floor and then install the cabinets, but you can do it either way.

Ditra and tile is not likely to cause a problem for you with the dishwasher. There should be plenty of adjustment height in the unit.

What do you currently have for a subfloor? What kind of tile will you be using?
The subfloor is tongue and groove plank layed diagonally. My plan was to install 1/2" B/C or better plywood over existing subfloor, screwed (only in field not to joists) and not glued...then ditra then tile. The tile is 12x12 porcelain with 2" porcelain border.

I'd lay the tile first, but it seems like it would be way easier to use the cabinets as a guide for laying the border. If I try to lay the border first and cabinets are adjusted at all, it could cause alignment issues... but I could be wrong. If I weren't doing the border, it would be a no brainer... but damn they look cool
 
  #4  
Old 12-14-09, 06:16 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,524
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Your plan is good..........
 
  #5  
Old 12-14-09, 06:34 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HeresJohnny View Post
Your plan is good..........
Ok, lol... so i just discovered deflection, freaked out and ran downstairs to measure everything. Looks like my joists are 2x8's, 16" oc and are anywhere from 10' to 12' in length between supports. Deflection comes in around L / 377... which appears to be good for ceramic but not natural stone. So, dumb question... what about porcelain? And is this number low enough that I need to worry/support the floor any more than it already is? I imagine adding the plywood would strengthen things up a good bit. Man, I'd hate to have to sister joists down there? Would crossbeams/blocking help or do you think I'm good? Thanks again.
 
  #6  
Old 12-14-09, 06:41 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,524
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Porcelain is ceramic tile, so you need L360. 2x8's spanning 10' are ok, but 12' is not ok. Do you have access to the floor joists from below?
 
  #7  
Old 12-14-09, 06:43 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yeah. Do I need to sister some 2x8's on the longer lengths? Another newbie question... is sistering a joist as easy as glueing and nailing to the existing joist... or do I need hangers, etc. I hope it's not major surgery. Thanks so much for your help.
 
  #8  
Old 12-14-09, 06:50 PM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,524
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
You just need to sister the center 2/3rds of the span. In your case approx 8'. Yes glue and lots of screws will do it. No joist hangers required. Glad to help. Also good to see that you are doing your home work before you do the actual work. Most folks come here too late.
 
  #9  
Old 12-14-09, 06:53 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Also, looks like only the first 2 joists in the series of 10 or so are 12'. The rest are either shorter or already have a sister joist. Hope it works out *crosses fingers*
 
  #10  
Old 12-14-09, 07:17 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 118
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The only other annoying thing I have to deal with is the t&g subfloor creaks like crazy. Hopefully putting the additional 1/2" plywood down will minimize that. Would be kind of odd to have a creaky tile floor
 
  #11  
Old 12-15-09, 03:30 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,524
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Add as many screws to the plank flooring as necessary to properly secure it to the joists before you install the plywood. That should quiet it down some. After adding the plywood, ditra and tile it should be a lot more solid and quieter. Sistering the overspanned joists will minimize movement and squeaking as well.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: