Shower base - retile & bed question

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Old 05-19-10, 10:03 PM
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Shower base - retile & bed question

We undertook a small project to retile the shower - had standard white 2x2 and trying to replace it with 6x6.

The bathroom is on 2nd floor. The shower is in the corner with 3 feet wall and glass frame above 3 ft. Has a glass door at the side for entry/exit.

During tile removal, the bedding mortar underneath came out. So now i need to redo the shower pan (not sure about the terminology here). Took the pan sample to local hardware store and they identified it as bedding mortar. They recommended to purchase a bag of new custom float/bedding mortar and use that to make the bed and tile on the top, the way it was before.

I am bit concerned and wanted to know more about this float mortar. I saw backer or cement base boards, not sure what's the difference between the usage of boards and bedding mortar.

Any pre-cautions that i should be taking while laying the mortar and then tile on the top? Should i use products like redguard on the top of float mortar - it's another $41 but worth it, if it does what i expect i.e. prevent water leaks.

Thanks.
 
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Old 05-19-10, 10:13 PM
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if this is your first time tackling a shower pan, etc., my advise is take it slow. One of the number one causes of shower leaks is a poor shower pan. Depending on the size of your base, they make premade pans and since it sounds like you haven't done this before, it may be a good idea. Otherwise you should have a waterproof membrane beneath the mortar, that prevents water leakage. You will need to get down to the base and start fresh. I know we have a few tile guys on here who will be able to give you step by step instructions. Good Luck.
 
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Old 05-19-10, 11:10 PM
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Indeed. It's the first time with tiling.

I must clarify that the drain and the membrane - looks like a thick plastic at the shower pan intact. We were removing the tiles and the bedding mortar [which i am reading is very easy to come off] came out in chunks along with the tiles. Now need to find a way to redo the bedding mortar correctly.
 
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Old 05-20-10, 12:01 AM
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make sure there are NO cuts or tears in the lining and that the drain area has no leaks. Just check carefully for anything that looks like water stains, etc. Make sure the corners are secure.
 
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Old 05-20-10, 11:17 AM
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See the link below for proper construction of a shower pan.

Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Also look at the kerdi showers.

http://www.schluter.com/media/brochu...k-2009-Web.pdf
 
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Old 05-20-10, 04:35 PM
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Old 05-21-10, 08:27 AM
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rum

The pan liner should have a preslope under it so that it provides a 1/4" per foot slope from the walls down to the drain. I cant tell from the pics if you have that. After doing the demo that you did there, you could have damaged the liner. You need to test the pan to make sure it doesnt leak. First, unscrew the drain barrel from the drain. Then you have to plug the drain below the weepholes. You can purchase a pnuematic plug from a plumbing supply house for a few bucks to do this. Then fill the pan with water up to a little below the curb. Mark the water level on the sidewalls, and leave it overnight. If the water level doesnt drop, then the pan isnt leaking. Then remove the pneumatic plug and let the water drain out. If you have a proper preslope under the pan, the water will drain properly and you'll have no puddling. If everything looks ok, your ok to go.

Some unusual tile job you have there. It would appear that whoever did this job tiled down to the pan liner, then installed the mud bed. Its not usually done in that order.

Your deck mud needs to be sloped minimum 1/4" per foot from the furthest point on the wall to the drain. That means that shorter points to the wall will be sloped more than the minimum. 6x6 tile will not be easy to conform to this slope. Thats why smaller mosaic tiles 1x1, 2x2 etc are normally used. Additionally, smaller tile means more grout joints and thus less slippery wet tile.

You can make your own deckmud. Its a very dry mix of 1 part portland cement to 4 or 5 parts sand. You can also use bagged sand mix, and add a little more sand. Look at the link I gave you above to see the details on the final mudbed construction.
 
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Old 05-21-10, 09:22 AM
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Take it from someone who messed up big time on his first tile attempt....you DO NOT want to try to do the floor with 6x6.

Everything Johnny said x 2. Though the tile may feel like it has a rough enough surface...when wet and soapy it will be slippery as he!!....you'll prob need to use a mat.

Maybe if its some sort of stone look with ridges and grooves it would work, but then the lippage issue happens.

The small stuff is the way to go. I'm sure they come with the backing mesh so alignment isn't that big a deal.
 
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Old 05-22-10, 01:58 AM
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that's what I like about this forum, great advise and teamwork!!
 
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Old 05-24-10, 09:16 AM
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Re

Thanks everyone for the great advise.

What's the best way to perform leak test - in particular how to block weep holes. Where are they located - how many if there is such a number -and how to block them easily.
 
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