HardiBacker 500
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HardiBacker 500
I had six sheets of 1/2" (.42) HardiBacker board delivered today for a tile floor project. I see that the stickers on the boards say "Hardibacker 500" and "FOR WALLS." What gives? After looking at the Hardibacker website, they make no mention of a floor version and a wall version?
All the site says is that you can use 1/4" on floors, but if you need some height (like I do) you can use 1/2.
Can I use this for my floor? Or is there a special flavor of HardiBacker for floors?
Thanks in advance for your help.
All the site says is that you can use 1/4" on floors, but if you need some height (like I do) you can use 1/2.
Can I use this for my floor? Or is there a special flavor of HardiBacker for floors?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Hi Tony,
The Hardie 500 can be used anywhere, go right ahead. The reason they make 1/4" is to minimize thickness since tile backers add virtually no strength. It's best to add plywood, then use the 1/4" stuff. Or you could go premium and use Ditra or one of Noble's membranes.
Tell us more, what does the subfloor consist of? How about the framing? What type of tiles etc.
Jaz
The Hardie 500 can be used anywhere, go right ahead. The reason they make 1/4" is to minimize thickness since tile backers add virtually no strength. It's best to add plywood, then use the 1/4" stuff. Or you could go premium and use Ditra or one of Noble's membranes.
Tell us more, what does the subfloor consist of? How about the framing? What type of tiles etc.
Jaz
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I should add that the plywood looks to be exterior grade and it's 3/4" thick. Tongue-and-groved too.
So, do I have a good strong sub floor?
1. 2x12s, spaced 12"
2. 3/4" exterior tongue-and-groove ply
3. 1/2" HardieBacker
Proceed?
Thanks!
So, do I have a good strong sub floor?
1. 2x12s, spaced 12"
2. 3/4" exterior tongue-and-groove ply
3. 1/2" HardieBacker
Proceed?

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That framing is better than required, as long as the joists are not over spanned. You left that info out. Also do you the the species and grade of those 2x12"?
All subfloor grade plywood has to be t&g. No plusses for t&g. If the sub isn't t&g, you'd have to either block all the seams or add another structural sheet of plywood underlayment over it.
What do you need the height for? Remember, with the thicker Hardie and basic tiles you will be close to 7/8".
Jaz
Tongue-and-groved too.
All the site says is that you can use 1/4" on floors, but if you need some height (like I do) you can use 1/2.
Jaz
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Thanks JazMan.
As for the span of these joists, they run about 12" feet from the house foundation (one bathroom wall) to a perpendicular steel beam. Opposite that beam, another field of joists supports the rest of our addition.
As for height, I guess I'm not sure there. The only reference I have is the adjoining bedroom (this is a master bathroom) has 1/2" hardwood "Belawood" flooring. At the bathroom door threshold, the flooring drops off to my subfloor.
As for the span of these joists, they run about 12" feet from the house foundation (one bathroom wall) to a perpendicular steel beam. Opposite that beam, another field of joists supports the rest of our addition.
As for height, I guess I'm not sure there. The only reference I have is the adjoining bedroom (this is a master bathroom) has 1/2" hardwood "Belawood" flooring. At the bathroom door threshold, the flooring drops off to my subfloor.
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Oh—I don't know the species, but they look to be exterior grade as they have that "pressure treated" color to them.
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Oh—I don't know the species, but they look to be exterior grade as they have that "pressure treated" color to them.
Jaz
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I put a call into the HardiBacker 1-800 line and the tech support guy said my 3/4" ply and 2x12s on 12" center are more than sufficient for my tile project. So, here we go. Thanks to those that offered their help!
Tony
Tony
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I put a call into the HardiBacker 1-800 line and the tech support guy said my 3/4" ply and 2x12s on 12" center are more than sufficient for my tile project.

Good luck.
Jaz