tile flange trouble

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Old 11-12-11, 05:08 PM
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tile flange trouble

Followed instructions that came with tub - cut and installed tile backer so that it sits on top of and not in front of tile flange. How do you grout the tile when the bottom 1.25" of the tile will have a half inch gap between the tile flange and the back of the tile? Any way to fix this without redoing the backer board?
 
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Old 11-13-11, 04:28 AM
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Have not heard of that method. I always fir out the wall studs with 1/4" lattice to bring it flush with the flange on the tub, then run the cbu down leaving 1/4 to 1/2" gap above the rim of the tub. That way the tile can be run almost to the rim leaving a silicone run around the rim. What is the tub brand? I'd like to see those instructions.
 
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Old 11-13-11, 12:42 PM
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Yeah that makes sense to do it that way. The brand of tub is Mirolin, and the model name is Sydney. Here is the installation diagram.

 
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Old 11-13-11, 06:21 PM
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Hi Boy,

Doesn't that drawing look so nice? Too bad water and vapor don't act that way. Obvious to me the tub manufacturer doesn't really care if your project works out well long terms. However they would say they are not tile people and don't know how it should be done, and it's not their responsibility. You're on your own.

I don't see a vapor barrier on the studs. They recommend drywall, that is very bad. There is no sealants were the drywall meets the tub. Since there is no barrier on the studs, you'd think they'd recommend a waterproofing membrane on the drywall at least. Nothing.
At what stage are you, maybe we can help before it's too late.

Jaz
 
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Old 11-13-11, 09:23 PM
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I used tile backer board instead of drywall, installed a vapor barrier behind it and sealed up all the joints, so I guess I'm at the tiling stage.
 
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Old 11-14-11, 03:30 AM
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Sounds like a "GO". Yeah, they make tubs, and are obvious to how anything attaches to it. Good thing you did your homework. Let us know how it turns out.
 
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Old 11-14-11, 11:03 AM
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Yes Chandler, it is obvious that they are oblivious for sure.

Be sure to caulk that seam at the backer/flange area. You can fill that last inch void by buttering the back of the tiles with extra thin set mortar.

Jaz
 
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Old 11-14-11, 01:46 PM
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I will definitely add extra mortar to the back of the tile, but I'm still a bit worried that the mortar and/or grout won't adhere directly to the smooth acrylic flange. If that is not an issue then I will get started tonight. Thanks for the advice!
 
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Old 11-14-11, 04:41 PM
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but I'm still a bit worried that the mortar and/or grout won't adhere directly to the smooth acrylic flange.
You're probably using a modified mortar which will give some bond. But no matter, as long as you're not using small tiles. What size are they btw? Even if it doesn't bond, it's there to support.

Jaz
 
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Old 11-14-11, 07:26 PM
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I'm using 13"x13" tiles so hopefully that will be ok. I'll post back if I have any issues. Thanks.
 
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Old 02-06-13, 09:12 AM
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If you fur out the walls with 1/4" lattice, how do you transition the backerboard vertical joint with the existing sheetrock in the bathroom? The instructions for my Kohler tub say exactly what you are saying but I'm not sure how to make that transition.
 
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Old 02-06-13, 12:36 PM
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Hurtman, welcome to the forums! If your tiles are of some size, say at least 4x4, then I don't fur out the walls, but, instead, allow the concrete backer underlayment stop on top of the tub factory lip. Your tile can cover from that edge to the tub without problem, jumping the gap so to speak. Smaller tile, then you would have problems.
 
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Old 02-06-13, 01:58 PM
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Thanks chandler. I appreciate the help.
 
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