Quick subflooring questions

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Old 09-12-12, 10:30 AM
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Quick subflooring questions

Hi Folks,

This is more of a "confirmation" than a question so I'm hoping I can get one or two quick "yep, it'll work" votes. Planning on tiling our kitchen. We have 2x 10's on 16" centers, 13' span. The remaining subfloor is 8" "lap" laid at a 45 degree angle, and measure just over 3/4" thick so maybe it's 7/8" nominal? So it sounds like I need an additional 1/2" and that could be the "tile backer" board (e.g. Hardibacker), is that correct? Also, this would go underneath everything (i.e. cabinets), the whole kitchen floor, correct?

I'm mainly asking as that we'll be living with a "raw" torn-apart kitchen for a while and I'd like to get this down since the subfloor is so rough. Would it be okay to put the Hardibacker down and leave it exposed for about 9 months?

Thanks,
BB
 
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Old 09-12-12, 10:34 AM
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Ceramic or natural stone tiles?
 
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Old 09-12-12, 11:50 AM
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If you are using Hardibacker all you need is 1/4". If it were me I would add a minimum of 1/2" plywood plywood on top of the original plank subfloor. I would go up to 3/4" if the threshold height wasn't a problem.

I would not leave the cement board exposed for that long. Why not drop some cheap luan on top temporarily to protect the cement board?
 
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Old 09-12-12, 03:33 PM
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Thanks, I'm thinking it will be ceramic tile but that is TBD. So, looks like 3/4" plywood if the floor height can take it, then 1/4" Hardibacker. If that's too high, then 1/2" plywood and 1/4" Haribacker. I'm wondering if I could just use the extra plywood for a while and then lay the Hardibacker when we tile. It's just that, right now, the bare subfloor is a bit "rough".

Thanks,
BB
 
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Old 09-12-12, 04:09 PM
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That's what I would do. Install the plywood, walk on it, clean it up and lay down your hardibacker in a bed of thinset. Sorry Wayne couldn't resist.
 
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Old 09-12-12, 07:53 PM
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Hi BB,

Originally Posted by biederboat
So it sounds like I need an additional 1/2" and that could be the "tile backer" board (e.g. Hardibacker), is that correct?
No, as already mentioned.

Repair any cupped, bowed or split planks, then install as thick an underlayment as possible. I vote for 3/4" too. Make sure you don't buy the cheapo sheathing CDX stuff though. I will assume you know how to install the ply.

Then choose a 1/4" concrete backer, (adds at least 5/16" installed) or if you wanna go 1st class consider Ditra which adds 1/8".

Wait till the tiles are to be installed before installing the concrete backer. (dangerous) Although it's not sanitary and splinters may come into play, you can install concrete backer over "old" ply. If you go Ditra, just tack in some luaun, them trash it to install Ditra. Ditra gets bonded to ply is why.

Jaz
 
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