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Saltillo Tile that has been stained and polyurethaned--recoating with polyuretha

Saltillo Tile that has been stained and polyurethaned--recoating with polyuretha


Old 12-13-12, 07:48 PM
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Saltillo Tile that has been stained and polyurethaned--recoating with polyuretha

Hi, I would like to recoat a previously stained (probably oil based Mahogany) and polyurethaned (with whatever was available for floors in the late 1970s) Saltillo tile floor. Some rooms have more wear than other rooms and I would like to recoat the dining room and kitchen and maybe do some spot touchups in the living room. I have purchased a water based polyurethane product (semi-gloss to match the original sheen) made for floors (wood is expressly specified on the instructions). It states that after putting down the 1st coat, you should buff it with a 120 or 150 grit sand paper or buffing pad. I've never buffed and am concerned with removing too much of the first coat. Any tips on what the best way is to complete this project? Thanks, Beverly
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Old 12-14-12, 04:02 AM
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Welcome to the forums Beverly!

While I've poly'd/painted new saltillo tile before, I've never had to recoat any. My biggest concern would be the type of poly that was used originally. If it was oil base poly, I'd be leery of applying a waterbased poly over it. While waterbased poly is supposed to adhere fine over well sanded oil poly, I don't have a lot of confidence in it. There are ways to test paint to see if it's latex or oil. I'm not sure if it also works with poly - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the term buffing. Basically you just want to lightly sand all the poly so the new poly will be able to bond with the old poly.
Old 12-14-12, 07:43 AM
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Polyurethane cures instead of drying. That means putting down more fresh poly does not affect the layer beneath. With something like lacquer which dries instead of curing, the next layer dissolves some of the existing layers and they end up bonding well together. With polyurethane, you lightly scuff sand the surface (I normally use 220 grit) to create nooks and crannies into which the next layer can flow to create a mechanical bond between the coats. This ensures the layers will not peel apart. You do have to make sure you remove the dust created by the sanding.
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