Mud shower pan drain riser and tiling

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Old 12-29-12, 11:06 AM
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Mud shower pan drain riser and tiling

Hello,

I'm having a mud shower pan built in my master bath. My contractor has bailed out and I have decided to finish this myself with some help.

We did the felt paper and then pre-slope on 3/4" plywood, then Oatey liner on top of that, then another mud slope on top. We didn't get to putting mortar on the curb yet.

I have an issue with the drain riser, I opened the drain riser the day after the final slope was done to unclog one of the weepholes on the drian base. It was very hard to open, but now it seems impossible to screw it back down into the base to the original height because it is very tight and refuses to go down. It's now sitting 1 1/2" higher from the mortar base (pics attached).

What are my options at this point? How can I screw it down 1/4" height to make it sit flush with the floor tile. Any wrench that I could use?

Please help!

Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 12-29-12, 11:16 AM
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Its a drain within a drain, I suspect that the threads have been fouled with floor mud and/or concrete. Pull it apart and inspect all threaded areas both on the top and what is still in the floor. It came out, so it should go back in. You just are experiencing some friction on the threads. It's plastic so don't get too aggressive. You probably will see scratch marks that will guide you to where the blockage is.

Call us back when you start to build your curb and install tile. Hopefully, you didn't pay the contractor up front for the whole job.
 
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Old 12-30-12, 03:59 AM
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It probably will not be easy to screw the drain barrel back in. When you pack the deck mud around the drain barrel, it forces the mud into the treading of the barrel. You can often screw the barrel out a little to raise the height of it when the mud is still fresh, but it gets difficult when it cures. If you took the barrel all the way out, its likely that the deck mud is so tight around the barrel that some of the deck mud is breaking off and getting into the treading between the clamping ring and the barrel. You can try to scrape some of the deck mud around the hole away to give the drain barrel the clearance it needs. Plug the drain with something first and then use a shop vac to remove any of the debris before you remove the plug. Dont remove any more of the deck mud than is necessary. Make sure you arent cross threading the barrel. Once you have clearance from the deck mud it should go in pretty easy. Before you set the barrel to the desired height, force some thinset under the top of the barrel to give it the stability and support that you took away when you removed some of the deck mud. Then set the barrel to the desired height.
 
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Old 01-01-13, 07:49 AM
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The original plumbing was done by a different plumber and the drain riser was installed by someone else later. I had purchased this square drain with it's own base because I wanted something square in brushed nickel instead of the home depot stuff. However, when the plumber was putting the kohler stuff in, he told me that for some reason (that I don't remember), the Kohler drain base wouldn't fit in the plumbing and he would use the Home depot stuff for the base and screw the Kohler top on it (which he did) and then the shower mortar was done and I tried to unscrew it and now it wouldn't go back in.
I tried your suggestions but it wouldn't budge. I think I have even damaged the threads on the Kohler drain riser.

So, I tried to put the original (round) Home depot riser back on and it went in with no problems.

Anyway, I really wanted the square drain, so I'm going to look for something else that may fit in the existing plumbing before I start tile around it.

For today, I plan on finishing the curb. I have the liner in place and I have bent the metal lath to snug fit. I plan on using the type S mortar mix from Home depot.

80 lb. Gray Type S Mortar Mix-65302880 at The Home Depot

But I have never done mortar work before at all. How do I mix this mortar for the curb. How much water in how much mortar? What should be the consistency? Or is it even the right stuff to use on the curb?
I plan on making 3/4" thick on top (with 1/8" slope inwards) and 1/2" on either sides.

If the mortar I have is not the right one, could you point me to a link to either lowes or HD product to use?

Does my plan sound OK otherwise?

Thanks
 
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Old 01-01-13, 09:18 AM
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You can refer to the following article with regard to your overall pan build. How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Type S mortar mix is designed to for high strenghth applications. Type N mortar mix would probably work fine in your application and probably save you a buck or two. The article recommends a 1" thick curb.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 07:11 AM
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Thanks for all the information.

Another question, is it OK to put another layer of mortar on the existing mortar bed to make it a little higher or is that going to mess it up?

Also, is there a minimum/maximum limit on how high the curb can be above the level of the shower floor?

Thanks.
 
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Old 01-08-13, 07:04 PM
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Could anyone please help me with the question above?

Thanks much in advance.
 
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Old 01-09-13, 01:30 AM
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I'm not positive you will have success adding a small additional layer of floor mud to the existing mud base. Once you get the curb in, you won't notice the height differences. You can build the curb as high as you want, limited only by how high you want to step up to get into the shower.
 
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